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Marko Tsourkan
02-25-2013, 02:34 PM
I mentioned recently that I will offer a limited number of boards and magnetic strips, and later will add wall/countertop blocks as well.

Please fill out a Board Survey Form, so I can get a better idea what people are looking for, or what their preferences are.
http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/accessories/end-grain-cuttinb-boards-survey

I would like to ask you to also fill a Magnetic Strip Survey, for me to get an idea what the preferred lengh would be.
http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/accessories/stock-wooden-magnetic-strip-survey

Boards, blocks and strips will be side projects and I will make them in limited numbers. I won't be taking custom orders for these.

Boards
Most boards will be 2" thick and will have a low-profile (about 3/16" over the counter top). Another design feature is fingers cutout that allows to move the board around easily. See picture below.

13586
13588
13587
13590
13591
13592
13593

I like to use full rows so the width will wary a little bit depending on the thickness of the lumber after it is squared. I will try to get as close as possible to typical widths ( 12, 15, 16, 18").


Magnetic Strips
These will be made of some highly figured grain woods I come accross once in a while. Most woods will be domestic, but I will also use (sparingly) tropical hard woods like macassar ebony. Here are a couple of examples of woods that I would use.
13595
13594

A typical thickness of a magnetic strip would be 5/8" and a typical width will be 2". Length will vary.


Thank you,

M

77kath
02-25-2013, 02:40 PM
These are all beautiful!

Marko Tsourkan
02-25-2013, 04:27 PM
Thanks to the few folks who submitted their input.

A few of things to clarify.

The boards will be one-sided and with silicone feet. Low profile (recessed feet) is to reduce the height of the board on the counter top - less strains on your wrists (this worked for my wife). Finger recesses are essential for moving board around - it would be awkward to lift a low-profile board of a counter top without this feature. Besides, these boards are pretty heavy even before they are seasoned with mineral oil, so finger recesses will allow for a good grip. Feet are necessary for air circulation under the board, to prevent slipping and to absorb impact better.

The magnetic pull on a magnetic strip will vary depending on the amount of carbon in the steel, so I am wondering if I should try to come up with a common-denominator solution that will work for both carbon and stainless, or should make blocks for carbon or stainless knives separately.

Strips will be chamfered, for an easy separation of knife from the block and will be finished with food safe finishes (mixture of food grade mineral oil and natural waxes).

M

heirkb
02-25-2013, 05:25 PM
I mentioned no feet, because I'd rather just put a towel under the board and then store the board on its side/on top of removable feet to dry. Can you expand on how the feet would help with absorbing impact?

Marko Tsourkan
02-25-2013, 05:43 PM
16x22" or 18x24" without feet is quite a beast to handle to be honest. I haven't weigh mine (I think it's 15x21), but I would estimate it to be at least 16LB. The recessed feet protrude only 3/16, so I don't think this will be an issue to store the board on its side.

I tenderize meats on my board, so silicone feet absorb impact from a tenderizer pretty well.

shankster
02-25-2013, 09:13 PM
Beautiful looking boards Marko! I think the recessed feet are a great idea and the fact that there's 6 feet instead of just 4.

Marko Tsourkan
02-25-2013, 09:24 PM
Thank you. 12x18 will have 4 feet, all of the other ones will have 6.

The idea for recessed feet I got from my wife. She is not very tall and for her to use a 2" board, it has to sit as low as possible.

M

shankster
02-25-2013, 09:30 PM
Did you add the 2 extra feet on the larger boards for stability or to help prevent warping/sagging in the middle?

ThEoRy
02-25-2013, 09:32 PM
I filled out the board section but the mag bar section appears to be missing now.

Marko Tsourkan
02-25-2013, 09:43 PM
@Theory - Fixed the link, thanks for pointing out.

Yes, adding 2 extra feet on larger boards allows for extra stability and/or to prevent warping over time (which not entirely sure is the case, but preventive measures can't hurt).

It seems that majority of the responders preferred walnut to other woods (and single tone to two-tone boards), which is a good news for me, as walnut has the most figure on the end grain. The one below has been my favorite.

I won't be making maple board at this time.

M

13600

heirkb
02-25-2013, 10:00 PM
Thanks for explaining that, Marko. You still owe me a cutting board from a year or so back (kidding, partly ;))

Marko Tsourkan
02-25-2013, 10:20 PM
I stopped making boards a year ago or so, as I didn't have access to wide belt sander. I do now.

Thanks again for chiming in, folks. I find these surveys very effective, as it makes me think of things I didn't think before and air them on the forum. Keep them coming and I will keep answering, so others will get the same info.

In my opinion, two-tone (w/ a contrasting frame) looks good on larger boards - 16x22 or 18x24, as it allows the inside section to be of a good size. I personally don't like two-tone on a 12x18 for the reason I just stated.

The thinnest I would go would be 1 7/8" on 12x18 and 14-15x20". Ultimately, you want a stable board that will last for many years. Hands recesses will allow to move the board around (I wash my board probably once a week) easily and recessed feet allow the board to sit almost as low as if it didn't have any feet.

I get lumber from a very reputable place locally. All their lumber is kiln dried, ready to be worked, but as a rule, I keep it in the shop for some time for it to acclimate. This hopefully will add to the stability of the future board. I use Titebond III, lay out the grain for stability and do a proper seasoning with mineral oil and mixture of natural waxes/oil before packing and getting it out. I would ship by FedEx or UPS packed for the worse case scenarios.

I will make them only as I find lumber with interesting end grain - a handful per month if that.

Magnetic strips I can make in a variety of woods (domestic and imported), but again, the grain has to be interesting. These are to complement my knives - I am not interested in mass-producing either of these two products.

M

Bill13
02-26-2013, 09:09 AM
Marko,
Maybe you could offer the silicon feet as an option with it's own check box, or just include the feet in a baggie with installation directions and leave it up to the customer.
I need to slide my cutting board into a narrow cabinet that also holds our cookie sheets. I think the feet will just make things tighter and will probably catch on the pan edges as I try to push it in. I too am happy with putting a dish towel under it to keep it from slipping around and help absorb impacts. It also means I have two usable sides to work with.

Dream Burls
02-26-2013, 09:21 AM
Marko,
Maybe you could offer the silicon feet as an option with it's own check box, or just include the feet in a baggie with installation directions and leave it up to the customer.
I need to slide my cutting board into a narrow cabinet that also holds our cookie sheets. I think the feet will just make things tighter and will probably catch on the pan edges as I try to push it in. I too am happy with putting a dish towel under it to keep it from slipping around and help absorb impacts. It also means I have two usable sides to work with.

Or you could just remove the feet when you get the board.

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 09:47 AM
These boards will be one-sided. You can remove the feet (they are screwed in), but the bottom side will show recessed holes and recessed area for a grip. Given the thickness and weight of these boards, particularly the larger ones, I won't be comfortable sending them modified.

I will try to factor in individual preferences, but ultimately these will be ready-made boards and will be offered on first-come-first-serve basis. I will give the heads up to the folks interested when I am going to post them though.

These boards won't have juice groves as I don't see a reason to have them unless it's a dedicated carving board. If there is interest for carving boards, I might consider making some.

b47
02-26-2013, 10:58 AM
Very nice work. Beautiful cutting boards.

b47
02-26-2013, 11:06 AM
like the magnetic strips as well.

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 11:14 AM
Finalizing design for magnetic strips. Will use Lee Valleys countersink washers and screws to mount these on the wall, so need your input on color - brass or stainless steel. Added a field at the Magnetic Strip Survey below.
http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php?option=com_rsform&formId=11

I ordered a number of different strength magnets to come up with an optimal pull for both stainless and carbon steels. The knives I will use for experiment will all be in 210-270mm size. An optimal pull will be when the knife is kept securely on the strip, yet it won't be difficult to remove (pull is not too strong).

13606

13607

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 12:09 PM
Or would you rather prefer no-screws-on-the-surface look?

13609

mpukas
02-26-2013, 03:53 PM
6 feet on wider boards may lead to rocking on uneven tile counter tops. Not usre it's necessary for board strength over time.

Love the boards - especially the recessed feet and finger groove design.

Pricing?

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 04:10 PM
Very good point, thanks for chiming in.

I will price them competitively, but to be honest, I haven't spent much time thinking about the prices. First I need to finalize the design and preferences, then will work on the prices.

M

ThEoRy
02-26-2013, 04:12 PM
Use brass if they are going to be visible. Invisible would be preferable if the mounting solution is elegant and discrete. Make sure it's strong enough to hold a 210mm deba too.

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 04:27 PM
I will make prototypes of both constructions. Ordered hardware and magnets, so hopefully early next week will get something out in the open. Hidden hardware would still allow the strip be mounted flush on the wall and will be sturdy to support whatever it is on the strip.

Logo or no logo on the front side? What would be the preference? If logo, I would probably need to get a small head for my burning iron. The logo would probably be .5"x1.5", so fairly small. Alternatively, I can burn a full size 1x2 in the back of the board, but it won't be visible.

zitangy
02-26-2013, 04:45 PM
Marko,
Maybe you could offer the silicon feet as an option with it's own check box, or just include the feet in a baggie with installation directions and leave it up to the customer.
I need to slide my cutting board into a narrow cabinet that also holds our cookie sheets. I think the feet will just make things tighter and will probably catch on the pan edges as I try to push it in. I too am happy with putting a dish towel under it to keep it from slipping around and help absorb impacts. It also means I have two usable sides to work with.

From my experience, if the dish towel happens to be wet and your leave it overnight, it may warp the board. . Ditto if you happen to have a wet towel on top of it.. Happened to me! careless mistake.

Rubber feet wld have its usefulness. IF you chop heavily or use a mallet on your say cleaver,
a) it will absorb the impact adn not transfer the force from board to the counter top and prevent scratching it when it moves. The rubber feet is softer than board. Thus it depends on your usage. IF it is just fine/ regular cutting it is not an issue.

b)Recessed hole for the rubber feet. Without it, at least you can take out the screws of the rubber feet,try to close/ fill up the screw holes adn use it as another surface. Especially when it is slightly uneven.

hv fun and stay sharp....
d

Dream Burls
02-26-2013, 04:51 PM
Use brass if they are going to be visible. Invisible would be preferable if the mounting solution is elegant and discrete.

+1

If you could mount a separate wall piece that a similar part on the back of the strip would fit into, like a z-bar, the front could be clean and the piece could be easily removed for cleaning, polishing, etc.

As for your logo, I'd keep the front clean. You could put it on the side of one of the end pieces.

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 06:41 PM
...Make sure it's strong enough to hold a 210mm deba too.
How much does your deba weigh?

ThEoRy
02-26-2013, 08:23 PM
The deba is 17.45 oz or 494.6 g.

ThEoRy
02-26-2013, 08:25 PM
I think the logo is important. Just put it in one of the lower corners where there is no magnet so it doesn't get covered by a knife

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 08:46 PM
I would not mind commissioning mini metal logo that can be embedded into the block, but I don't even know where to look for those or what they are called. It would be just letters A and T in the circle like in my full logo. Can anybody point me in a right direction?

Marko Tsourkan
02-26-2013, 09:19 PM
Found out that these would be custom coins or crests. Sent an inquiry for pricing.
M

The hekler
02-26-2013, 10:34 PM
I'd be interested in both a board and a wall strip, especially the wall strip. I would enjoy a makers mark somewhere but honestly don't see a metal emblem as a step up, burn in logo is just as good. Face without screws would be preferred if its still simple to mount. Don't know how many magnets it would take but it'd be awesome to display some of my Betty cleavers and my 270mm deba (probably about 1.5-2lbs) currently with you so I can't weight it. I'm eager to see what you come up with and glad someone has stepped up to make magnetic knife strips as it seem one of the few things we are lacking on this forum, now if only someone will start making knife blocks again.

brainsausage
02-26-2013, 10:51 PM
I'd personally prefer hidden hardware. And I'd be proud to have a Marko seal of approval adorning said strip.

Marko Tsourkan
02-27-2013, 12:29 AM
I have ordered hardware, so as soon as I receive it, I will experiment. The intention is to have the block securely attached and flush against the wall. It would be easier to do this with through-screws, but hidden/recessed hardware should work as well.

@Will, blocks will come at some point, probably wall-mount before free standing, but one step at the time now. Those are slightly more complex, and I just don't have time/don't want to deal with them right now. Even little things can consume a lot of my time and I do enjoy tweaking things, sometimes without end in sight. :)

Ultimately, I would like to offer a whole line of accessories, to accompany my knives, made to my liking, but with a lot of input from the end users.

jgraeff
02-27-2013, 01:21 AM
those boards look amazing!

hoimin
02-27-2013, 11:39 AM
Ultimately, I would like to offer a whole line of accessories...

Ultimately, I would like to fill my future kitchen with your knives and accessories!

I second/third the idea of your maker's mark on the side edge (brass coin or burn-in) of both the board and magnet block. A hidden mount with some sort of easy-to-remove-and-clean feature would be my preference. I can imagine a thin mounting bracket for the block to lock onto the screw heads.

Marko Tsourkan
02-27-2013, 12:52 PM
... A hidden mount with some sort of easy-to-remove-and-clean feature would be my preference. I can imagine a thin mounting bracket for the block to lock onto the screw heads.

That's the idea. I would like a strip be flush on the wall, but it should be easily removed for oiling, waxing and buffing.

I have spend an hour this morning walking my dog and thinking of magnetic strips, and got an interesting idea for design. I am going to keep numb until I make a prototype. The hardware for hidden mount will be here by the end of next week, so you guys will have to arm yourself with patience, or I will have to make a prototype with screws-through mount.

Another thing I was thinking about is to make dedicated strips for heavier knives. It's hard to find a common denominator magnetic pull for 500g and 200g knives. The right pull for heavier knives will be too strong for regular weight, and this has been a complain about some of the blocks on the market. I am going to think a little more about it, but I am strongly leaning to either making a separate strip with a stronger pull, or have a part of a strip have a stronger pull for heaving knives and part for regular weight knives. If a strip has screws-through mount, then there will be a middle screw/s that will indicate separation between these two sections. With hidden mount, I will have to come up with some visual indicator.


Keep those surveys coming! I have been adding new fields to them as surveys pored in.

Board Survey Form
http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/accessories/end-grain-cuttinb-boards-survey

Magnetic Strip Survey Form
http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/accessories/stock-wooden-magnetic-strip-survey

Dream Burls
02-27-2013, 05:58 PM
This may be over simplifying your connection problem, but....

Since the magnetic strip already has a magnet in it, would another wall mounted magnet be enough to hold the strip with knives in place?

kalaeb
02-27-2013, 06:41 PM
Those links are not working for me, from any device. 404 error?

Maybe just me, I an not really computer savy.

Marko Tsourkan
02-27-2013, 08:47 PM
Those links are not working for me, from any device. 404 error?

Maybe just me, I an not really computer savy.

Sorry, reorganized site a little bit. Here is the new link:

http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/surveys

Thanks,

M

hoimin
02-28-2013, 10:45 AM
This may be over simplifying your connection problem, but....

Since the magnetic strip already has a magnet in it, would another wall mounted magnet be enough to hold the strip with knives in place?

I considered suggesting this too, but then there is the potential for pulling off the entire rack, unless it is sleeved in, in which case there is no need to spend on extra magnets. I've heard of Ikea-hacks where people just glued two racks together magnet-side out and magnetically mount the whole contraption because they couldn't drill (link (http://www.apartmenttherapy.com/look-refrigerator-magnetic-kni-60335)).

Marko Tsourkan
02-28-2013, 12:00 PM
The strip will be mounted with screws, either with screws-through the strip or on a hidden mounting hardware on the back of the strip.
In either case, there will be anchors in the wall. I don't have a solution for hanging a strip over tiled surface, except drilling and anchoring. I would not recommend a sticky tape, regardless the strength or manufacturer's recommendation.

M

Marko Tsourkan
03-01-2013, 10:55 AM
I was asked today if a strip could be mounted vertically and knives stored horizontally.

There are couple of issues that need to be taking into consideration - gravity and overlapping magnetic fields from multiple magnets that can cause rotation. One way to work around them is to embed steps for individual knives similar to guitar fretboard. They don't need to protrude much, maybe 3/16" at most, but it would be enough to keep the knives in place and prevent from occasional turning (I can see contrast wood as a good choice). The strip mounted vertically has to be a bit wider too and magnetic pull stronger (or magnet layout differently) so occasional bumping wont knock out the knife off the strip.

I am sort of lukewarm to the idea of making this type, but am throwing it out in the open. What do you guys think of the idea?

M

Marko Tsourkan
03-06-2013, 05:09 PM
So I made a magnetic strip, I think it was 22" of magnetic area. I used Birdseye maple that when oiled lit up and showed some underlying burly grain figure. There a small spalted area as well.

I know you are asking where are the pictures?, but a friend stopped by and left with it. I still have some more of the material, so a smaller (around 20") and a larger (36") strips are coming soon.

M

jayhay
03-06-2013, 06:15 PM
Is the survey over? I was going to offer my input :)

Marko Tsourkan
03-06-2013, 06:39 PM
It' s never over. Nothing is written in stone. No good ideas will ever be refused.

jayhay
03-06-2013, 06:50 PM
Sorry, Marko, I should have been more specific. The links to the survey in the first post are returning 404 errors, which is why I thought it was over.

Marko Tsourkan
03-06-2013, 07:49 PM
New Link:
http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/surveys

Marko Tsourkan
03-07-2013, 05:42 PM
Now that I finalized designes of two wall-mount magnetic strips, I would like to turn my attention to a design of a free-standing countertop blocks. I am thinking of starting with a magnetic block, and at some later time to come add a traditional block that has slots.

I personally give preference for magnetic over slotted designs, for two reasons. Fist, magnetic blocks are typically less complex. Second, in the past, I had some carbon knives rust on me while oiled and stored in sayas, so I think I would prefer a visual check periodically for signs of trouble. And it goes without saying that magnetic blocks will do a better job at displaying your knives.

There are many designs out there, but this particular one appeals to me. Obviously, I won't copy it, but I like the concept and the simplicity of this block. (Knives on this one are stored tips up, so the recess is for handles) A style like that would go along well with my knives and other products.

Any suggestions for alternative designs? As always, thank you. Oh, forgot to add that countertop magnetic block wold be be made out of American Black walnut, my favorite wood.

13843


M

cclin
03-07-2013, 05:54 PM
Marko, this counter-top magnetic block is exactly what I'm looking for! when I can purchase one??

hoimin
03-07-2013, 05:56 PM
I shy away from slotted knife blocks -- hard to clean if anything gets caught in there. They make for nice enclosed damp environments.

An alternative design I've been kicking around, which will require more woodworking than a flat block would be something like a blocky comb. Each 'tooth' would offer 3 surfaces for a blade. The whole thing could be angled out so the handles are more accessible, where the back of the block (which can be another magnetic surface) is tilted and the weight is primarily on the 'teeth', which are triangle slabs. It's not as compact a design as a slotted block, but it doesn't care what size and types of blades you have.

Marko Tsourkan
03-07-2013, 09:30 PM
I would like a design that allows to store knives tips up, like in the picture attached in my previous post.

M

brainsausage
03-07-2013, 10:17 PM
I really did the mag-block idea Marko. I think it's especially attractive to those who aren't in permanent dwellings, i.e. rental properties, where you can't nescessarily install a strip, and/ or it'd be a pain to deal with said installation and removing it when you change residences.

Marko Tsourkan
03-08-2013, 01:04 PM
I think I came out with a design for a free standing (with optional wall attachment) hardware block. I think to be 100% sure that you don't tip it, attaching it to the wall with hardware or double-sided tape would be recommended.

It will be 18" across, the knives will be stored tip up, and it will be made of thick walnut with ebony inlays. The design will be reminiscent of Henckels, but not identical. I have looked at hundreds of designs, and note appealed to me as much as Henckels'. Sometimes, you just can't reinvent a wheel.

I will post the block once I am finished, for your input.

Thanks,

M

Anton
03-08-2013, 01:07 PM
I think that's exactly what I've been looking for! hurry...


After thinking about it for a while, I think I came out with a design for a free standing with optional wall attachment hardware block.

It will be 18" across, the knives will be stored tip up, and will be made of walnut with ebony inlays. The design will be reminiscent of Henckels, but not identical. I have looked at hundreds of designs, and note appealed to me as much as Henckels'.

I will post the block once I am finished for your input.

Thanks,

M

Marko Tsourkan
03-08-2013, 03:58 PM
I think that's exactly what I've been looking for! hurry...

I have heard that before. :D

I think it will be offered on first come first serve basis. No custom request will taken. Sorry, folks!

I will take all feedback and incorporate it into the future work, but ultimately, I am in the business of making knives. I want to have a line of accessories, but, as it looks now, a guy I wanted to hire is busy with making stairs after hurricane Sandy, and I will have to do all work myself. I won't be able to produce many of the strips, boards and blocks, unfortunately.

M

Anton
03-08-2013, 04:07 PM
Cmon! This is such a tease!


I have heard that before. :D

I think it will be offered on first come first serve basis. No custom request will taken. Sorry, folks!

I will take all feedback and incorporate it into the future work, but ultimately, I am in the business of making knives. I want to have a line of accessories, but, as it looks now, a guy I wanted to hire is busy with making stairs after hurricane Sandy, and I will have to do all work myself. I won't be able to produce many of the strips, boards and blocks, unfortunately.

M

don
03-08-2013, 04:16 PM
Cmon! This is such a tease!

True, but focus is much better. Good call, Marko.

Marko Tsourkan
03-08-2013, 04:26 PM
I was making light of it, to a degree, but true, there are limits how much I can do. Knives take longest, so sometimes it is good to unwind doing other things, but the wait list is not getting any shorter, and knives are my priority.

I will however try to incorporate preferences for ready-made products.

M

kalaeb
03-08-2013, 04:50 PM
Now that I finalized designes of two wall-mount magnetic strips, I would like to turn my attention to a design of a free-standing countertop blocks. I am thinking of starting with a magnetic block, and at some later time to come add a traditional block that has slots.

I personally give preference for magnetic over slotted designs, for two reasons. Fist, magnetic blocks are typically less complex. Second, in the past, I had some carbon knives rust on me while oiled and stored in sayas, so I think I would prefer a visual check periodically for signs of trouble. And it goes without saying that magnetic blocks will do a better job at displaying your knives.

There are many designs out there, but this particular one appeals to me. Obviously, I won't copy it, but I like the concept and the simplicity of this block. (Knives on this one are stored tips up, so the recess is for handles) A style like that would go along well with my knives and other products.

Any suggestions for alternative designs? As always, thank you. Oh, forgot to add that countertop magnetic block wold be be made out of American Black walnut, my favorite wood.

13843


M

Definitely sign me up for that one. My wife and I decided against mag strips hanging on the wall for fear of our kids bumping or accidentally throwing things agaist them. But the counter top solution fits the bill perfectly.

Marko Tsourkan
03-08-2013, 05:30 PM
I will make a prototype and you guys tell me what you think. As I said, nothing is written in stone and to come up with a good design from a fist try is a long shot, but collectively, you have helped me a lot with tweaking the products to your preferences, ultimately, making better products.

I would have to price it to the market, as these projects will be competing for time with my knife making.

M

M

WildBoar
03-08-2013, 06:16 PM
best of all worlds for houses with small kids could be the countertop model with a solid hinged door that can be secured to cover/ protect the knives when prep is not underway... In general might make wives feel better, even if is it not a house with kids.

Marko Tsourkan
03-08-2013, 06:47 PM
Interesting idea, but will have to put it on a back burner as cabinetry is definitely more than I can handle now skills-wise and time wise. but I might team up on that with others. There are a couple of cabinet makers in the vicinity of my shop.

M

mpukas
03-09-2013, 06:19 PM
I sort of like the idea of a free standing mag knife rack, but personally I'm not sure I would choose that over a traditional block. I dont' have a lot of knives, but I have quite a few and most of them get used regualarly, so one issue for me is how many knives can the free standing mag rack hold.

Also, I'm not sure about the tip being up - primarily for safety reasons. I wondering if you flip the rack so the recess for the handles is at the top, and then at the bottom create a reveal that the tips could slide down into to keep them covered/protected. Obviously this creates other problems such as cleaning that area and only knives of a certain length would fit down in there, etc.

I think the comments about blocks holding moisture is worth considering. I've got an idea to modify the wall mounted block design I did some time ago to make the back of the slots open, and put the whole contraption on a base. How ever they are designed, counter top blocks are going to take up the most space, compared to a wall mag strip, or your idea for a free standing mag rack.

Marko Tsourkan
03-09-2013, 07:18 PM
A free standing magnetic blocks will have 18" of surface. I won't make it longer as it probably will look a bit unwieldy in a larger size. The tip-down design never appealed to me for a number of reasons. One, you got to twist your wrist (thumb down position) to get your hand on the handle of a knife. Awkward at best. Two, some will store the block on a counter-top under the cabinet, and clearance will vary, so imagine that you bump into the bottom of the cabinet every time trying to get your hand on the knife handle. Add the awkwardly twisting your hand while doing this, and perhaps you will see why I never considered this to be a good design. It's pretty amazing to me that many of designs for blocks out there are of this kind - but hey, here is an opportunity to be different.

The board will be taller than the tallest knife, so your tips will never be exposed. In fact it will have a similar to Henckels rest for handles, so knives will be lined up at the bottom.

Cleaning and buffing it will be a breeze. I can use different strength magnets, however this is not as important, as the block will be slanted, and knives will be rested on a board (gravity), and only light magnetic pull will be required to keep them in place.

Nothing is written in stone and the design will be up for revision if necessary,

M

mpukas
03-10-2013, 08:15 PM
Good points Marko. mpp

Marko Tsourkan
03-13-2013, 03:05 PM
After making a couple of mag strips, I concluded that this design - rectangular, low-depth, works better for small objects like keys,and other ferrous things, than wide and tall objects like kitchen knives. The issue seems be with removing the knife from the strip. To keep the knife securely attached, the magnetic pull has to be fairly strong. It also makes removing the knife difficult.

I have a new design in my head and a prototype within days. This mag strip will feature a hidden mounting hardware. I think this is going to be the only design I will offer.

Stay tuned.

M

Dream Burls
03-13-2013, 03:58 PM
Removing a knife from a magnetic strip is also a matter of technique. Sure, if you try to take it off with the blade flat you get a lot of resistance. But if you twist the knife onto its spine you get leverage from the strip in the twist and then the contact is significantly reduced and you can pull the knife off easily. That's also the best way to place a knife onto a magnetic strip: spine first then twist the blade down flat.

Marko Tsourkan
03-13-2013, 04:09 PM
Removing a knife from a magnetic strip is also a matter of technique. Sure, if you try to take it off with the blade flat you get a lot of resistance. But if you twist the knife onto its spine you get leverage from the strip in the twist and then the contact is significantly reduced and you can pull the knife off easily. That's also the best way to place a knife onto a magnetic strip: spine first then twist the blade down flat.

That's true, but sometimes these things are done without giving them much thought, so the easiest to use, the friendliest design would probably be the direction I will take. I have Rosle Open Kitchen (rails with magnets that slide over the rails) that I use and studied the design a little bit and what I will come up with will be a variation of that.

My next question, what do you guys think of a block with a contrasting strip on it's face? Or would you prefer a monotone block in whatever wood it is made of?

Thanks,

M

The BoardSMITH
03-13-2013, 04:28 PM
Since you are exploring knife blocks, here is a suggestion. And one you can use for your sayas.

Coat the inside of the slot/saya with shellac. This will prevent most of the moisture from getting to the steel and may prevent rust. This is a time consuming step and requires that any shellac be removed from areas to be glued. Glue will not stick to shellac. I'm glad someone will be making knife blocks. This will take some of the email questions from me and I will then know where to send the inquiries.

Anton
03-13-2013, 04:30 PM
For me as long as the strip is not hugely different... but I tend to lean towards less is better, keep it classy like all of your items. That being said, you'll have to see these with both options and decide what "your brand" is going to be.. You can always start with simpler version and then do the strip as an "upgrade" down the road to keep it interesting/fresh but also for further potential... sorry, now I'm talking like if I'm at work plotting a marketing campaign.



That's true, but sometimes these things are done without giving them much thought, so the easiest to use, the friendliest design would probably be the direction I will take. I have Rosle Open Kitchen (rails with magnets that slide over the rails) that I use and studied the design a little bit and what I will come up with will be a variation of that.

My next question, what do you guys think of a block with a contrasting strip on it's face? Or would you prefer a monotone block in whatever wood it is made of?

Thanks,

M

brainsausage
03-13-2013, 04:43 PM
I prefer a uniform appearance personally.

Marko Tsourkan
03-13-2013, 04:47 PM
Since you are exploring knife blocks, here is a suggestion. And one you can use for your sayas.

Coat the inside of the slot/saya with shellac. This will prevent most of the moisture from getting to the steel and may prevent rust. This is a time consuming step and requires that any shellac be removed from areas to be glued. Glue will not stick to shellac. I'm glad someone will be making knife blocks. This will take some of the email questions from me and I will then know where to send the inquiries.

Making traditional knife blocks is on a back burner, but realistically speaking, might never materialize, as these are time consuming and should probably be made to order.

What I have in mind should be better categorized as knife stands with embedded magnets and wall mount magnetic strips. Both are "open platform", so they can accommodate many types of knives and in terms of time and labor involved, both types are manageable and I can make a limited number of them parallel to making knives.

M

Dream Burls
03-13-2013, 04:58 PM
My next question, what do you guys think of a block with a contrasting strip on it's face? Or would you prefer a monotone block in whatever wood it is made of?


M
I like the idea of contrasting wood. It pops the piece out and will make it look more artistic.

Marko Tsourkan
03-13-2013, 06:28 PM
I will make a prototype in each, starting with a mono color.
M

Johnny.B.Good
03-13-2013, 09:23 PM
I prefer a uniform appearance personally.

+1

A nice dark wood of some sort (maybe walnut to match your strop bases) would be my first choice.

Marko Tsourkan
03-13-2013, 09:36 PM
Started on one in uniform appearance. Will have pics of the prototype on Friday.

markenki
03-13-2013, 10:16 PM
Started on one in uniform appearance. Will have pics of the prototype on Friday.
Looking forward to it!

Marko Tsourkan
03-15-2013, 12:18 AM
Looking forward to it!

Prototype is done and I like it. Pics tomorrow.

don
03-15-2013, 12:23 AM
Can't wait to see it!

Anton
03-15-2013, 12:33 AM
How about some classy bling?? In the form of a recessed fine nickel line "spacer" across the width..! ?

Marko Tsourkan
03-15-2013, 12:41 AM
How about some classy bling?? In the form of a recessed fine nickel line "spacer" across the width..! ?

Bling is not my thing. Handles is different and even with handles I am being pretty conservative.

M

Marko Tsourkan
03-15-2013, 03:26 PM
There you have it...

A bit dark in here, so can't capture the grain well. It looks better in person.

Design allows for easier separation of knives from magnetic strip, while maximizing magnetic hold on the surface. Recessed mounting hardware allows for a flush-mount. Magnets are completely sealed inside.

Overall, I like this design much better over the prototypes I have made before.

13961

13960

Anton
03-15-2013, 03:39 PM
WOW, very nice!
Does it come in 18-19"?
Sign me up pls...

Marko Tsourkan
03-15-2013, 03:44 PM
This one is 16.75" (16" of magnetic surface). It's all I had on hand for walnut, but I just purchased more, and subsequent ones will be 18" and 24". I won't make them smaller.

You will have to take my word for it - it looks much better in person than on the pics.

M

Johnny.B.Good
03-15-2013, 03:47 PM
I'm sold.

Just need to find the right place for one.

Marko Tsourkan
03-15-2013, 03:49 PM
The wide chamfers also highlight grain in 3D, so I have some walnut as well as highly figured maple in mind for the next few.

Dream Burls
03-15-2013, 04:01 PM
Love it, particularly the chamfer. That really sets the piece off. Nice job Marko.

markenki
03-15-2013, 04:46 PM
Very nice!

Wouldn't changing the orientation of the fasteners to vertical make more sense? I'd be worried that the strip might work it's way sideways and fall down.

Marko Tsourkan
03-15-2013, 05:01 PM
it shouldn't matter, as it has to be mount flush (working on a solution), either vertical or horizontal mount. I decided to keep this prototype, so I am going to give it a thought once I mount it and see how it works out.

M

Marko Tsourkan
03-18-2013, 09:23 AM
Magnetic strips will be available in the store shortly. A typical lengh will be 18 or 24". If I have a particularly nice piece of wood, I will make it in a different lengh (12-24").

These will be made on ongoing basis, but it is possible that I won't have one ready to ship when order is placed. The wait time is up one week.

Same as with my knives, strips will come with 7 days return policy, as long as they come back in same condition as received.

Lastly, higher price reflects cost of materials, time and labor. These are more complex than Mag-Bloks and the price reflects that.


Link to Magnetic Strips (http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/store/category/18-storage)

Thank you,

M

14004

14003

14002

Marko Tsourkan
03-18-2013, 10:37 AM
14007 (http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/store/category/18-storage)

Tried to link image on my site to the store, but it didn't work. So to access store, please use the link below:

Store (http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/store/category/18-storage)

jayhay
03-18-2013, 01:58 PM
14007 (http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/store/category/18-storage)

Tried to link image on my site to the store, but it didn't work. So to access store, please use the link below:

Store (http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index.php/store/category/18-storage)

Wow, that looks great! I like the strips so much more without the big centered logo. It would still be nice to see a brand on it, like the "Marko Designs" shown in the first, just smaller and in a corner. But without the "designs" part. Not really a fan of the comic sans typeface.

Love this design!

Marko Tsourkan
03-18-2013, 02:01 PM
Wow, that looks great! I like the strips so much more without the big centered logo. It would still be nice to see a brand on it, like the "Marko Designs" shown in the first, just smaller and in a corner. But without the "designs" part. Not really a fan of the comic sans typeface.

Love this design!

Thank you.

I have commissioned a branding head with my logo (same as on my knives) in .5x1.5". I intend on marking strips, strops, DMT custom bases, and counter-top knife blocks (when I get to them) in the bottom right corner, discreet but still visible.

Until I get a new logo head, I will use Marko Designs, but burn it on the back of the strip. Come to think that I can grind off the "designs" and have Marko only. :)

About the pricing for these. The higher cost reflects higher cost of materials (magnets, thicker, highly figured lumber, fittings), time and labor. These strips are not easy to make and are quite time consuming. If you don't believe me, try to make one yourself.

I don't plan to make many of these, just a few at a time, and I don't anticipate running sales on these. Just giving you heads up.

Thanks,

M

Marko Tsourkan
06-29-2013, 06:45 PM
Latest strip in quilted maple.

16525

I wanted to mention a couple of things regarding the magnetic strips.

I use a recessed hardware construction that allows the face of the strip be free of screws. The hardware accepts flathead screws (provided along with anchors). I place the hardware on a back of a strip a certain distance apart (even number, in the case of 18" block, total lengh 21", the hardware is placed 16" apart).

To mount the strip, a person needs to mark the holes on a leveled line 16" apart, drill the holes with a small bit 1/16-1/8" and then widen the holes with a 1/4 bit to accept anchors.

As long as marking is done correctly (always double-check) mounting the strip should very easy. Before securing the screw in the anchor, one should put it in the hardware and estimate how many threads should be left on the screw for a flush wall mount, and from there adjust up or down for a flush fit. I don't recommend using double-sided tape or any sorts of glue, as over time the weight of the block and knives will likely break the bond and the strip is likely to fall. Hanging on the screws anchored in the wall is the is the most secure way. Please remember that.

A typical magnetic strip uses one row of magnets. These are strong magnets and can hold securely a typical chef's or other large knife. If you have a deba or some other comparably heavy knife, I would need to either use two rows of magnets, on a part of the strip, or make a separate strip with two rows of magnets for heaviest knives. I would need to know beforehand what the preferences are, so I can factor them into construction.

Thanks,

M

Marko Tsourkan
07-18-2013, 03:31 PM
24" walnut strip (next to 150mm petty)

17113

don
07-18-2013, 08:37 PM
I should simply set up direct deposit into your bank account, huh?

Marko Tsourkan
07-19-2013, 09:05 AM
I should simply set up direct deposit into your bank account, huh?


That wouldn't be necessary, but I am very happy that you like my work.

M

Marko Tsourkan
11-05-2013, 09:44 AM
Magnetic strips are going to be a stock item in walnut and maple. 18" and 24".

I have a few custom orders for boards, so these will have to be completed before any ready-made are produced.

Marko Tsourkan
11-15-2013, 12:00 PM
On the finishing stage. All 24" are already bespoken, and two 18" are bespoken. I will be making more in tiger maple.

20213

20214

20215

Marko Tsourkan
11-17-2013, 05:26 PM
Shipping these out on Monday - Tuesday.

One 24" maple and one 18" maple are available, the rest are bespoken - thank you for the patience.

20262

RoscoesChicken
11-18-2013, 12:48 AM
Shipping these out on Monday - Tuesday.

One 24" maple and one 18" maple are available, the rest are bespoken - thank you for the patience.

Hey Marko, beautiful work! I will take the 24" maple if it's still available...

Marko Tsourkan
01-24-2014, 05:37 PM
These are the first two of replacement strips. Shipping out tomorrow, sorry it took so long.

I have 4 more in works, should be getting them out next week.

Thanks,

Marko

21826

Nuts63
02-19-2014, 12:53 PM
Marko , how is the stand alone knife block design coming any progress and do you have any mag strips avalible for sale ?