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Mucho Bocho
08-19-2013, 11:11 AM
I understand why its necessary to think knives. I’ve been watching Jon and Murray’s knife videos ad-noisome and read some old threads by Dave and TK from Knife Forums. Very helpful but do you thin a knife the same way if it doesn’t have a shinogi line?

I just don’t understand how to preserve the profile of the blade face if you’re grinding a secondary bevel in. Can somebody shed light, maybe even suggest a method that works for them. Video’s would be wonderful too. I don't want to screw up my Kono, Yusukes and DT.

Thank you

ThEoRy
08-19-2013, 12:02 PM
I just grind above the edge then blend in the blade face, apply the finish you would like and re sharpen.

CrisAnderson27
08-19-2013, 12:10 PM
I just grind above the edge then blend in the blade face, apply the finish you would like and re sharpen.

This. Thin it until its where you want it, then blend it. As you move up the blade you'll need to thin more and more of course (most blades without shingoi are still convex...the blending helps maintain this profile on its own), but it would take pretty hard use to make this noticeable over a reasonable period of time.

Mucho Bocho
08-19-2013, 12:26 PM
OK, So the amount of material I remove from the shoulder when initially sharpening is minimal, then as I sharpen more will need to be removed?

Blending? Killing me guys? Master Jon hasn't talked about blending?

So for sharpening, I'll use:

1200 Beston, 5K Suehiro then balsa strop on cromium, strop diamond loaded leather

Same progression for Thinning. Will I be able to remove the scratches from the thinned shoulder?

Thanks again

CrisAnderson27
08-19-2013, 12:33 PM
Imagine it like this. You sharpen your knife at a 15° angle, but because you're moving up the blade, the shoulder is thicker. You'll then make a say...10° (random number) back cut across the shoulder to thin. That's the fundamental of thinning and you've got that down. To blend, imagine making another small back cut above that, then another above that, then another (it doesn't really matter how many, the smaller they are and the more numerous, the easier to 'blend')...in descending angles. then you just roll the blade over the stone with trailing strokes to cut the 'peaks' off those cuts. You can also blend with sandpaper...which is common since you can combine your finish work and the blending all at once.

Basically you're just thinning the work you did while thinning lol, and rounding it off to make it pretty and maintain your convex.

Mucho Bocho
08-19-2013, 12:45 PM
CHRS, Great explaination and I follow you completely. I'm going to experiment this week. trying to rehabilitate myself after initially believeing that the Edge Pro would solve my sharpening woes. Should have listend to Dave years ago. There i said it!

ThEoRy
08-19-2013, 01:15 PM
Basically, If you don't blend, it will look like you have created a messy shinogi line on a blade that shouldn't have one. I blend it in to make it look as close to original as I can.