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View Full Version : Question about a huge mod on #6 tojiro pro.



memorael
10-05-2011, 09:29 PM
So after seeing Dave's work on the hiromoto that got thinned out I figured I would try doing this on the cleaver to make it look bad ass. I started working on it using a green carbide stone which works about as fast as a well you get the point. At the current moment I am wondering if someone has any ideas on how to improve the geometry to make it more streamlined since these knives come with a pretty distinct V bevel.

Kinda like they only cut a V at about an inch from the edge and the rest is pretty thick, I want to make it look like it has no bevels and also would like to thin out the cladding to make it look more extreme. So any hints, suggestions or what not are welcome. The last resource would be shipping it to TK, just don't tell him cause he don't know about it.:razz:

PS... anyone know how to put pics into this thing? I tried doing the attach thing and surprise! it isn't there.

https://picasaweb.google.com/rael.ptacnik/6#5660172500637259538
https://picasaweb.google.com/rael.ptacnik/6#5660172502734201410

tk59
10-05-2011, 09:36 PM
If you send it to TK, you should probably not expect anything good back and just hope for the best. I'm pretty sure he hasn't worked on something that large and he has a little belt sander. Don't you owe him a nice stone, anyway?

Back to your question... I'd just grind down the shoulders and smooth it out all the way up the side of the knife with a diamond plate. It would prob only take a week or so. ;)

Rottman
10-05-2011, 09:41 PM
I don't see the pictures...

Cadillac J
10-05-2011, 09:58 PM
I'm in the process of thinning my Kagayaki cleaver right now...doing with a DMT :(

memorael
10-05-2011, 10:11 PM
I am thinking TK probably knows his knives :razz:

About the stone... You mean the one with the pretty bubblegum pink slurry that turns purple once you sharpen on it? Its the shizzney, you should definitely come on over to try it out:wink:

zitangy
10-05-2011, 10:57 PM
A question on removal of the cladding... Can we ever remove too much?

rgds
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memorael
10-05-2011, 11:03 PM
yeah if the steel is really thin, depends on the knife and its a case to case thing really.

Seb
10-05-2011, 11:10 PM
Could not one simply hire/beg/borrow/steal a belt sander? :)

zitangy
10-05-2011, 11:40 PM
I suppose depending on your type of friends.. If I calculate my cost per usage of my tools, it is high. I am more than happy to lend to my friends ( provided it is returned on time) so that I have the privilege of using it whenever i want/ need to. Sx, they pop over to use it...

It still cost money and time to drive, pay for parking and repeat the process when it is returned.

If it is not going to break the bank.. i would purchase it.... All the spines of my knives have been smoothened.. just for the heck of it.. So if I calc. cost per usage for each knife.. quite comforting... . Besides, it was a passage for me as I tried sharpening and honing on a belt grinder and went back to stones....

rgds

JohnnyChance
10-05-2011, 11:59 PM
Right click on your full size pictures in Picasa, click "copy image url", then paste that here in the field that pops up when you click the "insert image" button.

As for your thinning/bevel blending, I will repost this video again:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdEe9sEQRcE&feature=player_detailpage

tk59
10-06-2011, 12:12 AM
I'm actually confused a little. Memo already knows a ton about sharpening but he's making the question sound noobish. He still holds the unofficial record for longest lived edge ever to grace my kitchen and he did it on a Glestain (and a coticule).

JohnnyChance
10-06-2011, 12:19 AM
I'm actually confused a little. Memo already knows a ton about sharpening but he's making the question sound noobish. He still holds the unofficial record for longest lived edge ever to grace my kitchen and he did it on a Glestain (and a coticule).

He's playing dumb to sucker you into doing his dirty work.

memorael
10-06-2011, 12:22 PM
O no I ain't playing dumb, I know the old fashioned before the empire and the jedi knights way you know... arm grease and a DMT xxc I just figured someone probably knows how to do a better job and one that doesn't require blood drawn from the finger tips :angel2:

Besides TK has done some work on a belt sander, I know jack about using one all I know is that it goes round and fast... and I have a tremendous fear of all those sparks flying... makes me think my crotch is gonna catch fire.

Dave Martell
10-06-2011, 12:51 PM
My first thought is to use a belt grinder with the bottom 1/2 of the blade laid down the length of the platen. You need a platen as long or longer than the blade as well as handle clearance. Not all grinders (like el-cheap-o HFs) offer this capability.

Failing that option I go to the old fashioned stone on steel using the same approach.

memorael
10-06-2011, 01:27 PM
I think I am about to do some serious flexing today. I will post results later in about a IDK... 2 days?

memorael
10-07-2011, 03:29 PM
My first thought is to use a belt grinder with the bottom 1/2 of the blade laid down the length of the platen. You need a platen as long or longer than the blade as well as handle clearance. Not all grinders (like el-cheap-o HFs) offer this capability.

Failing that option I go to the old fashioned stone on steel using the same approach.

So I decided to make this a WIP so people who aren't fond of the ol' muscle grease method can see what it actually looks like. 2 days and I got squat... this is by for the worst idea I have had in a good way.

So what I have been doing here is increase the bevel size. To do this I just lay the knife flat hit the bevel and then try to hit the middle of whatever angle forms, kinda like trying to balance the knife on whatever sticks out the most between the bevel and the spine of the knife...

The iron on the tojiro is seriously thick, I been hitting that motha with the 150 omura (I know its slow but I figure I will save time when it comes to scratch removal and I don't want to end up with huge scratches all over the knife, it also helps to avoid over thinning IMO) and I still don't have the sides flat after about 14 hours of work. My arms feel like potato starch udon and the knife is pretty much chilling with a daiquiri. The bevel at least seems to be halfway to where I want it. Comments, encouragement words and what not are welcome.

Pics (how do I attach them? sorry for the crappy pics I have no camera right now, toilet got it).

https://picasaweb.google.com/rael.ptacnik/October72011#5660821563299052578

As you can see the bevel is almost blended with the rest of the knife, but the spine part on top is seriously no interested in being messed around with. The plan is making the bevel one smooth transition and mirror polishing the bottom half while leaving the top part matte. If the cladding permits and shows some artsy waves I will send it to Dave for some etching, maybe some final tweaking if he see's fit.

Cadillac J
10-07-2011, 04:24 PM
The plan is making the bevel one smooth transition and mirror polishing the bottom half while leaving the top part matte.

This is exactly how I am doing my Kagayaki. I've put only about 1.5 hours into the thinning so far on a worn DMT XC (325? yeah, not that fast), and haven't touched in over a week...maybe I'll jump on it this weekend. Funny that I'm doing all this after I realized that cleavers just aren't my cup of tea.

memorael
10-07-2011, 05:16 PM
Maybe once we are done with the knives we will like them cleavers... funny how I don't really care for the cleaver that much (kinda like a toy you like in a not so loving way kinda deal) and I also am putting all this work into it.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

tk59
10-08-2011, 12:06 AM
Am I the only one that can't see the pic(s)?

tk59
10-08-2011, 12:26 AM
Here are the pics...
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