View Full Version : Tutorial - Replacing the ATOMA diamond pad

Dave Martell
06-02-2012, 06:58 PM
How to replace the ATOMA diamond pads (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140.htm) is a question that I get asked often yet we never have anyone buy the replacements (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm) - LOL. I suspect that people might be hesitant to take this on themselves without knowing what to expect so I decided to do a quick tutorial on how to do this.

First we have to have an old busted plate that needs replacing. This is my shop use 140x ATOMA that's flattened countless amounts of stones over the last couple of years and sharpened a fair amount of knives recently too. This plate isn't dead yet though, it's just too slow for my liking so I'm putting a brand new replacement 140x ATOMA pad on the base. *BTW - these ATOMAS outlast DMT's by at least 2.5x!!!

Here's the old busted pad. Not bad condition considering that I've never once dried it after use.


Here's the kit needed to get the job done. Well I left out some cleaning products but you can get by without seeing that. We have the old busted pad, the new ATOMA replacement pad (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm), a putty knife, and a hammer.


Now we see the back side of the new replacement pad (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm) showing the location of the tape strips. Note these locations for the next step.


The way to remove the old pad is to use the putty knife to severe the grip that the sticky tape has between the old pad and base plate. Here you can see how I will do this although you should note that I'm showing that I picked a bad spot to attack the tape, I'm showing that I'm going in at a spot where there is no tape, I'll have to re-position.


Now we see what lies beneath the old busted pad and it doesn't look too bad really. Remember that I said that I never dried this plate off ever and look Mom no rust or damage what-so-ever.


This is the step that I didn't capture - the cleaning. I used WD-40 and some green Scothrbite to remove the residual adhesive and then followed by alcohol to clean up that mess and make sure that we had a nice fresh surface to adhere the replacement pad (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm) to.

Here we now have our replacement pad (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm) all lined up and ready to go.


I now peel away the little tape backing strip bits (whatever they're called).


Now to adhere the new ATOMA diamond replacement pad (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm) to the base plate and we're back in business.


I hope that this helps with your upcoming ATOMA diamond pad (http://www.japaneseknifesharpeningstore.com/product-p/ato140repl.htm) replacements. :)


Eamon Burke
06-02-2012, 08:30 PM
Got any suggestions for a test of what is reasonable to expect as far as speed from the Atoma? I mean, how do I know when I can say "this thing is annoying me". Obviously, I liked it when it as brand new, lol, but I know it won't be that aggressive forever.

I think part of the problem with nobody ordering replacements is that it just doesn't seem to wear down at all! I am probably going to wear mine down before the year is out, with the amount of steel grinding I'm doing on it.

I thought mine was jacked up, it was rusty and loaded with stone mud and steel that just wouldn't come out. But I put a goodly amount of BKF on it, and gave it a scrubbin--clean as the day it was born.

06-02-2012, 11:14 PM
To clean up the adhesive, would acetone also work?

Dave Martell
06-02-2012, 11:27 PM
To clean up the adhesive, would acetone also work?

I tried that first with the Scothbrite and it did nothing so I went for the WD-40 and it was insto-gone.