Recent content by gregg

I beg to differ about files being too soft. Most metal files I've used, (even inexpensive ones) are hardened more than enough to take down those bolsters. I do it all the time on both carbon and stainless knives, (coincidentally on both Wustoff stainless and my own Thiers Issard carbons) for...

That's the first time I've seen a system like that; interesting, especially for someone who tends to cramp up a bit freestyle these days, (age+ lack of magnesium?)! Where did you find it?

I've been living in France for the last 35 years, and every time I go back to the US I'm struck by how much bigger restaurant portions have gotten. I'm a big guy, but there is no way I can finish entrée/plat/dessert (appetizer/entrée/dessert) in the states now...

When I'm working a blade that is higher than I'm used to, (or lower, for that matter) and especially if it's been done any old which way before, I use this : http://www.visualtrig.com/ to find a place to start from and then control with sharpie/feel.

That's funny; I love my Bester 1200, but have never gotten a feel for the 4000, except for bringing out a nice kasumi finish. Somehow I've never really ended up with an edge that I like, whereas I have an easy time with the Suehiro; go figure!

And another consideration : cost. If you're getting the T7 for less than $500, (and I'd recommend finagling the blackstone (SB 250) out of them as the original stone, you are getting a pretty good deal. I cost my stone wear at about 40 cents a blade, so you might want to find out the cost of...

I use one professionally for knives and scissors, but I systematically follow with bench stones. I would not recommend using it for grinding anything except the edge bevel on knives. Serious flattening, (ie. high up the blade face) is really not a good idea, since you'll spend hours on stones...

Yeah, there's is still a sizable contingent of "older gents" who've always carried Opinels and use them as steak knives. Never seen it be a problem, even in Michelin joints. I think it depends a bit on the customer's attitude, as well. As an aside, I sharpen professionally in France, and do...

I switch when I need to do "heavy" wide bevel work and flip when doing the actual qharpening. I find it hard to stay consistent as a right hander switching unless I have the (wide) bevel to lean on. I like to sit, unless the work surface is really high.

I like the sound of 125u film; where do you get yours? (I've got some fairly serious stainless thinning looking me in the eye at the moment!)

Just a quick question; where exactly on the edge are you getting the .38mm, (or .25mm) thickness from? eg., just behind the primary bevel, or higher up?

:biggrin: I love the hammer bit; had an in-law complain that a blade I had done wasn't "that sharp", and when I looked at it I had a moment of doubt about my work in that it had a hugely folded over edge. I finally realized that she had been whacking the back to cut through chicken bones when I...

I do a fair few of these for kitchen staff here in france. They don't hold up for long unless you really go high on the bevel angle. I don't like to, but the guys usually want to wait a month between sharpenings! (The opposite of deep pockets €£$!) I actually take them right up to 25° per side...

Thanks. It looks like I'll be staying with "too shiny" 'til I can afford a nice natural finishing stone!

Originally Posted by gregg I'm currently faced with the same "problem"; ie. kasumi-looking 800 or higher grit. Just out of curiosity, what was the final pass on your Zakuri pictured, and dos it "grip" less in onions for example? (the only thing that the 800 finish seem a bit grabby on). Also...