I have a late model Lamson slicer and the grind is pretty nice. Not crude like the Forgecrafts I have, but not a custom mirror finish either. It also has a decent taper as I recall that I can measure later if anyone is interested. As for handle - a Western with a wood bolster/ferrule and contrasting scales might be doable. They'd need to be laid out to be pinned and glued, but hey - that's what CNC is for.
if memory serves mark used a company called petes heat treat for his american made knives. lefty, who would be doing the heat treat on this knife?
Originally Posted by El Pescador
HT is going to be something we have to figure out. However, we're likely doing salt pots, based on Pierre's specs. They will follow our exact instructions. If I'm wrong on the salt pots thing, Pierre, please correct me.
Damn, I made one of the first posts in this thread, but something happened and it got swallowed by the cyber-abyss.
It all worked out though and I think that people have already brought up most of my suggestions / opinions.
Aside from just talking specs, I think it's important to have a clear design philosophy for the knife:
-It should be a homage to the hay-day of Lamson / 1900's American knife making, but updated / informed by what we have learned since then from Japanese, European (French), and North American customs.
-It should be about utility, craftsmanship, and quality. I love fancy burl and mosaic pins too, but IMO they have no place on this knife. Anything that adds bling, but does not add function, performance, or value per$ should not be on this knife. All North American materials and labor.
-It should be carbon mono-steel. Not stainless, not san-mai. I like fancy cladding. I like laminate construction, but that's not what this knife is about. I think 01 sound great.
-It should be robust / rigid at the spine for at least 3/4 of the blade. Strong spine, but THIN behind the edge. I like Lefty's "almost" grind profile but it should transition from the heel to tip (in conjunction w/ the distal taper) to a flat-grind near the tip.
- Profile should be reasonably flat, flat "sweet spot" near the tip, but its important to understand that even gyutos that LOOK flat near the heal are not actually truly flat in any one spot for more than an inch or so. If any one has even used a knife that actually has big, dead flat section of edge, it feels just that: DEAD. It creates a horrible "clunk" when a big section of edge all hits board at the same time.
-It should have a full tang(distal taper) with western scales. Handle should look clean and with obvious roots in tradition, but no bolster and nice and thin before the blade. Great handles are great because of perfectly placed nuances. It should be comfortable for a full range of hand sizes. I may be in the minority here, but I think that handle should me maintenance free: resin-stabilize wood, g10, or micarta... Personally I like the simple, classy look of polished black linen micarta and simple silver pins
-This knife should be the answer to the "What knife should I buy?" question of "I'm looking for 1 good knife where I can learn about carbon steel, proper (non- rockn' chop) technique, and which I will not out grow. It must be durable enough for whatever work I throw at it, and comfortable enough for many hours of continuous use."
I am in for at least 2 of these, maybe 3.
If we need 50-80 people for this, and if Lamson really would like as much feed-back as possible, it would be nice if they could supply 2-3 prototypes for pass-around. I'd also like to see an initial "1st draft" pass around and then a 2nd "revised" / pre-production pass around.
Justin, you get it 100%. Honestly, you nailed it. You're one of our testers, for sure.
Gentlemen/ladies. Fr your consideration. Here is an example of a choil shot Tom and I are looking for... Thoughts?
Justin's summary sounds great to me also. Still not a fan of the 'artificial' handle material and would prefer some good old American wood, but that may also be a cost issue if you add stabilizing and not everyone may like the same woods. If there really will be a run of those made, it should not be too difficult to ask for a few extra blades without handles so that the tinkerers among us have something to play with. But overall priority should be on function and value.
I love all of this. Love G10 and Micarta. A lighter color would be good too, I've see white and butterscotch micarta that look very classy, a bit less traditional though.
Originally Posted by Justin0505
Justin you did nail it. My thoughts exactly. and pierre that looks good
i dont think the knife has to be carbon. infact, theres alot of cool stainless steel american makers work with that i simply cant afford. i was hoping to get a chance to try one of the higher end stainless steels with this gyuto.