People have been doing laminated handles for a while, wish he wouldn't put these on all of his knives though as I don't like them enough to pay the extra.
Drilling and burning a single block for the handle wouldn't seem to be much more work either....
I guess I am really surprised he joins the ferrule and the body with out some form of support. I dont see that union as being particularly strong, but I guess it works....
Sorry for a quick OT: Matt, did you get my email? I get error messages when I reply, please let me know.
And now, back to the regular program. As for the gluing of ferrules without extra support: depends on the materials that are getting glued together. Gluing wood, horn or anything that contains resin (lke Acrylic, bakelite, reconstituted metal or stone), that should not be a problem, and once the handle is on the knife, I would not have any concerns at all. These bonds are usually very strong. I have come across two situations where those bonds can break: throwing the handle to the floor (or against a wall if you mess up while fine-tuning the symmetry - ask me how I know...) or breaking off the ferrule when attaching the handle. In both cases the sideways shearing forces are just too much. Very different story if gluing metal to anything, I would not do that without any additional reinforcement.
Probably more than you wanted to know, I am bored while my students are writing their exam on research methods... :)
I didn't get one, If you tried via kkf my email does not work. I can shoot you over another one tonight.
Originally Posted by apicius9
I am also surprised he does not use a guide for his angles, that would drive me nuts trying to get it even
I appreciated that Carter shared how he makes his octagon handles. I like his knives, and if his custom handles makes people happy then that's great. Personally, I'd take a Stefan or Mike Henry handle.
Here's a couple of new to me Carters with Mike Henry handles.