255 sounds great to me.
255 sounds great to me.
255 is about where I would want it.
One issue I have had with blade heavy knives is the blade naturally wanting to land right in the middle of where it curves to the tip which is also where it makes the least useful board contact. Handle material or an extended tang could help or even a weighted butt on the handle. Overall weight on a knife of this type doesn't really concern me if the added weight and momentum of the blade is focused on the most useful and productive sections of the knife.
This is what I like about the profile of the Kato, I loosen my grip, and let the weight of the heel finish the cut. Which is where the arc comes in handy
I found with a knife that hit in the curve that the knife begged to be a rock chop specialty knife. It was like the knife wanted me to rock on products like cucumbers or crimini shrooms which is slower and less intuitive for me on tasks like these.
What do you guys think of a Western handle on 255mm heavy chef's? I am itching to do just that.
That sounds like the perfect Gyuto to me!
In my mind that could be a cool option, but might not suit those who like only Japanese style/looking knives. Being weightier and having a Western handle might make some feel it too closely resembles a German knife. Of course, in actuality you'll be addressing any of the issues guys have with them by dropping the tip, improving the grind, making it thinner BTE, moving the balance forward, losing the finger guard and producing the knife in a very good steel, with a great HT at a high HRC. However, the subconscious bias is strong enough that some might not be able to get past this until they are proven wrong. With that being said, you're a guy who can do it, and I'd love to try it out myself when all is said and done.
I won't limit it to one style of handles or another. Western handle is long overdue, and I thought it would be a good way to jump-start on this direction. Both Western and D would be an option. Octagonal handle will be done only on request.
In fact, this is the direction I am to take - offer all knives with both types of handles.
Western will be hidden tang for the reason that I find it more sanitary and moves less than full tang with scales.
Also, how much distance between handle and choil? What's this preference for Western handles?
Hey Marko. I've got a couple thoughts to weigh in. I have a Yoshikane 270 SLD that is simply awesome in it's size and weight. It's not terribly thick at the spine - thicker than my Shig, but not as thick as the Heiji I had (I'll have to measure it for you). I agree with what the other guys have wrote re: length and balance point - longer is better - 255 to 270 range. Blade heavy makes for ease of cutting. But I think mine is a tad too blade heavy - the handle in ho wood and light, and the blade is so heavy I'd like a slightly heavy handle to bring the balance point back. Too blade heavy can lead to fatigue because there's more effort spent balancing the knife. Also, mine has the S grind you described in your other thread; it's got some decent convexity as well and food release is quite good.
Love the idea of a western handled 255! Most yo-gyutos have the choil relatively flush with the front of the bolster on the handle. The Hattori FH has a slight curve from the choil to tang and that's nice for both sharpening and cutting use. Something like the KS gap on a was-handle is far too big. I dont' think the gap on a western needs to be as big as a yo, but some gap would be nice.