Thank you for the input guys.
The reason I drilled all the way through the ferrule on this one is I can't find where I put my small jeweler files.
But..... it makes sense as the best looking way to go.
On this practice one I cheated and picked a wood that was a color match to the dowel.
Since the body and ferule are wood to wood I used wood glue instead of epoxy on this handle.
I figured with clamping I would end up with a better looking joint.
Won't know till I start sanding.
I didn't give detailed instructions because I had a 50/50 chance of giving detailed instructions on how to do things the wrong way.
I don't know yet if this will turn out or end up as a chewie toy for the dogs.
You are right.
I also have a bunch of blades different makers have given me to mess around with. I will grind the tangs on some for Wa handles.
The more I get into this, the more respect I have for the wa handle makers.
Not something I would want to do as a job, more for my own diversions away from the daily routine.
Now I am starting to trim to shape.
There was a small bark pocket that showed up in the maple so I gave it a couple drops of CA glue to secure the bark and help with the fill I will do later.
Now it is trimmed to a rectangle shape and close to actual length. Right now I am a bit longer than normal at 6&1/2" long. I will probably shorten it, but I want to see how it looks and feels after I sand the octagon shape.
My center hole is off center a bit top to bottom so I will correct that before going any further.
this is going pretty quick!
Well......I thought I was doing pretty good. As I went along I was thinking about more efficient ways to do things.
Then, on the other side I saw what looked like a little bug hole. Pressed on it and got this.
When you are drilling out a block, make sure you have it clamped perfectly square instead of eyeballing it.
Now I need to start over.
Anyone want to place any bets how many times I will mess up before I get a keeper?
Hey, that looks familiar :) With a 5/8" hole that can happen easily. Three things I try to avoid that:
- I drill a slot by setting 2-3 1/4" holes next to each other rather than a round 5/8" hole through the whole handle. Then only drill the 5/8" round 1/2" into the handle.
- check that the piece is in square before I drill - well, I wing it more often than not, but after having done a few hundred, I do o.k. without measuring each one unless the pieces themselves are not squared.
- mark the center of the hole on the bottom also. I sand them to shape, and it can happen easily that you make sure the hole at the tip is centered but you are skewing the piece and the hole is not perfectly straight anymore after that.
Not sure if that helps, just a few additional steps I found helpful.
It's OK to laugh. Thank you for the input. I will try some of your suggestions. I seem to be one of those who tries all the wrong ways first before I settle in with the correct way that works for me.
I have about 30 years of various types of woodworking experience so I should have known better.
When I take short cuts or eyeball things instead of measuring and double checking,
It usually bites me in the butt.
Next step I will be making a couple jigs for drilling and grinding the angles.
Then I will start over again.
Looks like you have about 25 years of experience on me then, Mark ;) If you find out how to make a good jig for the angles, let me know... I was thinking about it, and I am sure it would be faster and more precise with a jig, but since most of mine are a bit tapered and I don't make the taper the same on every handle, I am not using jigs. More work to do it all free hand, but I also like that they come out a bit more 'organic' in lack of a better word. That said, I also like the clean, precise, and crisp lines of Marko's handles, just differences in personal style.
What I have done as far as eyeballing, is to have a length of flatbar from blade stock, available to insert into the slot, then as I am grinding away the sides, I have a visual reference for my alignment. Also gives me another place to hold/steady the handle as I am freehanding the taper. if I hold the bar near the platten while grinding one side, when I flip it over, I hold the bar in or near the same place. Gives me a more balanced handle, asthetically speaking. :)