Now this is a pair worth having:
Again, I'm crammed for time, but these are available. The scimitar is 12" long, and the cleaver is approx 7". Both have tight, secure handles and a good working edge will be put on them at time of sale. My site is taking a little too long to load up on my end, thus the items on here.
Scimitar price: $55
Cleaver price: $45
$12 shipping for you guys. We'll split the difference :)
PM if interested.
Why is there so much affection for ForgeCraft blades? Nostalgia? Good steel/geometry? Fashion?
a little of all of them, maybe not fashion,.I like it because that 1095 can take a razor edge and is easy to maintain. It doesn't have the best edge retention, but that is mainly do to the fact that they are not heat treated to their full potential. The blade geometry is pretty sweet. The knife is fairly thin under 2mm I believe , so you have a potential laser here. Fully one half of the height of the blade is hollow ground on a very large diameter wheel and the remaining half of the blade is flat ground and contains divots formed during the cold rolled forge process. This combination on a properly polished and maintained blade actually provides exceptional food release. It is the exact opposite of the convex grind that everyone is playing with now. They both get the job done, but go about it in different ways. This is the old school way of doing it. On This grind the food pushes itself into the concave surface of the blade, as it travels up the face and reaches the outward facing edge of the curve the food naturally falls away from the blade. Anything that gets past this will hit the divots which provide an air break to weaken the surface tension caused by the moisture in the food. The key to all of this working properly is the use of large diameter wheels. Most of today's hollow ground kitchen knives do not perform as well because small diameter wheels are used, mostly by guys who sharpen on grinders in the back of trucks.( sorry , Dave) ( I said "mostly"). The small diameter wheel gives you a hollow ground that is too small and a radius that is too tight. The food wants to curl up on itself and a lot of wedging occurs or because of the small hollow the food just bypasses it all together and gets stuck on the flat ground face of the blade.
Plus these are very comfortable to use. I prep about 4 to 8 hours of solid knife work everyday, 7 days a week with my forgecraft, no problems. a few strokes on the 1k king and I'm back in business.
by the way, that cleaver is as thin as the chef knife. A tad under 2mm I believe. That cleaver wasn't made for bones it is very much like a Chinese slicing cleaver. Think about it. I have something in the works, you'll love this.lol
Thanks Son....great response!
I have a minute (shouldn't I be sleeping?).
Son nailed it. He knows these blades better than any of us, but for the cleaver, you could use it a couple of ways: Chinese cleaver style, or like a thin deba, and put a nice obtuse microbevel on the back. These are tough as nails, and would easily bounce back from spine crunching (with the blended microbevel). I don't have my calipers or the cleaver next to me, but I'd guess it is 2-2.4mm max, at the spine.
Oh, and it's now spoken for :)
As for Forgecrafts, in general, again, Son said it all. Hair-popping sharpness, 1095 steel (I'm a fan), and the grind is deceptively thin. I actually was asking a maker about a huge hollow ground chef knife (about 4-5' platen hollow ground blades), because they can get so nice and thin, and have excellent food release properties. For fun, someone should measure the spine, middle of the face and 1cm down from the middle of the face thickness on a Takeda. Essentially, he does something similar with his hammer blows.
A couple dumb little update/notes:
The cleaver is 2.1mm at the spine, while the chef knives vary from 1.8-2.1mm, depending o who was running the press that day, likely.
I just sharpened both the cleaver and my personal Forgecraft Chef knife, settin the cleaver bevels wit a Chinese waterstone that is about 600-800 grit (they don't say), 1k king, and 6k Suehiro and they are dreamy! Of course, I pushed the edge on the chef knife, because of its geometry, and it is perhaps the sharpest I've gotten a knife...ever!
The cleaver, I gave a convex bevel, but finished with a slightly less ridiculous angle and it's a hair popper, and the weight makes you not want to do the three finger test...or the thumb test. Luckily, I felt it go in before it drew blood :)
I'm going to contact a few people to see if I can manage something cool (maybe what Son has in mind), and if it comes to fruition, I'll be setting up a passaround. Hell, I might just set up a Forgecraft, as is passaround.
If the sides are convexed, how does that affect maintenance? Thinning behind the edge?
I have one almost complete.
Originally Posted by Lefty
Gotcha! I still might do it for fun. Haha