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What about a nice cheapo, available in Germany? Just to entertain you while waiting for offers? This taiwanese knife from ugou,de Reactivity is low, it might contain some chromium.

Grinding to a burr on one side only? That might leave troubles on the other side.

Thin grind, affordable and available in Europe. 372g * 218 * 107 That was my main knife for more than a decade. Will be back in the kitchen soon. The picture of the whole knife is from the 600g version, but looks identical. sorry.

A and B points out bevel width on the ura. Below picture shows an ura without bevel. Touching the ura with last deburring only might do this. Looks like a don't do this picture. Without sharpening the ura the edge will fail. Can that be read as sharpening the ura a little more, or at least...

This Question popped up here and there with polishing. I am thinking of how to keep an all day knife nice and good cutting? Start from there. With a hamaguriba grind, like on single bevels life becomes easy. Finger pressure at the bevel sharpens the edge, at shinogi sharpens the upper bevel...

On razor forums is some chat about using lather. Here it might improve single bevel edges.

This might explain the shape of the damage. An edge ground too thin will fail with the first use. Stropping a thin edge with pressure causes heavy flex. And the cork grabbed damaged spots and tore off this funny triangles. How thin is that edge and how is the flex test?

First hands on lesson is to get a nice and even stroke. Why not give the student a rough stone? Tell them to get a feel and a steady stroke. They can look how the new bevel developes. I liked that experience. To me there is no best way. There are different ways to success, depending on the...

First thing first. It's not you teaching how to sharpen. Is is you learning how to teach sharpening. I failed early on people that would like sharp knives, but didnt like the effort. Some upgraded to cheap V-sharpeners Thank you @Keith Sinclair. That's good advice.

As a beginner with straights I do too many off strokes. A little too much pressure here and there keeps the edge from fully set. That's enough to change the behavior of my SP and Chosera completely. My first attempt left black streaks all over the stone. Just in case its not the stones.

I've thought about splitting the wood. Carving out the tang hole and glueing the wood back in place. Friction fit handle done. But that might be seen as cheating.

Autsch!

If that is a burr on your picture, how does it look at the opposite side? As I read it, @Kawa s test needs to check both sides.

That knife was steeled for weeks. Steeling won't leave an burr, visible to the naked eye. But the steeled area on a worn edge looks brighter. Yes, parallel sunlight can show the described effect. Lamps on short distance don't do that.

Ok, that might be a burr. Or the steeled area? I direct the edge to the light. If a small shadow shows up at edge, there is a burr. I like sunlight, but your lamp should show it too. But the shadow is small. A loupe shows it definitely.

That bright line looks like steeled at a high angle. A high angle and pressure will wear off the edge after some time. Steeling with light pressure, only a little higher than the sharpening angle should last longer. But where is the burr?

Three weeks without steeling is good👍 And how long does the edge last with steeling?

Yes, but how long does it last?

Hi @r0bz , are you sure about that burr? I know that burrs only as a model to explain why steeled edges don't last. If you detect a burr after the first steeling. it is most likely weakened steel, a leftover from the last sharpening. A steeled edge feels different than fresh from the stones...

How do you like that steel from your experience? Which edge feels better?