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I doubt it's a single person. Likely farmed out to a specialist, who, in this case, doesn't seem to be named.

I just broke down because of Amazon Japan pricing, having had the Santoku for years. The 240 gyuto is an entirely different thing, very impressive. I haven't sharpened it yet, but I never found the steel too hard to deburr. It loves a hard, blue Aoto. The handle and balance on this knife are...

That @eddworks is beautiful! Can't wait for my turn to come up.

I would distinguish between knives I use when I have time to focus and the knives I use when I'm in the weeds. If I need to blast through a bag of onions, nothing works better than my big Takeda cleaver. If I want something more versatile, maybe my 270 Wat Kurouchi gyuto. I don't break out fancy...

I use it all the time for oatmeal. Heats quickly, perfect size.

I don't have such precise measures. There is definitely an upsweep in front. I think mine is similar to this. I've put one on my Moritaka, albeit not as pronounced.

What didn't you like about it? For me it's pretty much the Platonic form of a cleaver. Can't believe the deal from Amazon Japan

Those are delicious wines

Very subjectively, AEBL feels to me like white no. 2 and SKD more like AS, at least in terms of toothiness.

If I can only have one, I would take a softer option.

To the issue of sharpness, I'd point out that it is not captured in a single number. Multiple factors contribute to our perception of sharpness: how thin is the blade, especially right behind the edge and overall? A really thin knife will still feel sharp even when the cutting edge dulls. Then...

For me, the issue here is price, size, and profile. Yoshi tends to be flatter and less tall; the Togashi will run short with its Sakai sizing. I prefer Yoshi with that tradeoff. The Kono you list is made by Yoshi. I prefer the SKD steel, but not that much.

Agreed, Cerax is another good, fast option, and affordable. They are soft and good for hiding imperfections but less good for getting the geometry just right. You need to get the geometry right with hard stones first.

I like JNS 320. I would like to try a Shapton Rockstar 320. The SG320 is great, but I worry about wearing it down polishing. The SG500 is a wonderful stone. While you don't need it here, it would keep a nice, tight progression to your 1K. If you really want a nice lamination line, get the JNS...

From the pics you've shown, honestly, I'd keep the 500 and just use sandpaper. Working out all those low spots is a big job, and I don't think it will improve performance. I think the 180 is going to get you there faster and useful for heavy lifting. Getting those scratches out with a 500 is...

A 320 will make your life easier here. I have the JNS and Shapton Glass. I go Debado 180 --> 320 -- JNS 800 or Shapton Pro 1K

It depends what you're after. For regular use, those low spots are not a problem. You can deal with the cosmetics with sandpaper on soft backing and then just be mindful as you sharpen. That's the path of least resistance. If you want to even out the bevels to make it look nice, it is going to...

I'm in! Thank you so much for this

I think I use a honesuki more than most but not for carving or slicing. I like the stiff blade for trimming, especially silverskin, the low-grit finish for scoring, fillet small fish, sure. Even in that context, an all-purpose petty/suji is more practical. But who's practical? I have too many of...