Asymmetric sharpening questions
I'm kind of a newbie at sharpening and Japanese knives as I long subsisted on a high end Chef's Choice and Wusthof german knives and a few victorinox fibroxes so my apologies if my questions seem dumb!
Anyway, I just bought a 240 CarboNext gyuto whose edge is (a)not all that great OOB and (b)Supposed to be 70/ 30 which I assume means 15 degrees on one side and 12 on the other more or less.
I also just bought an edge pro which I am loving (thanks Ben!), so I can more or less check that the angles are, in fact, what I indicated using the magic marker test but one question I had was absent a very expensive laser goniometer is there a practical way to determine the angles precisely? I suppose one could use trigonometry and figure out exactly how high the edge pro is at any given angle but that seems a pain if there is an obvious alternative available using for example the angle cube which I also bought when I got my edge pro?
My next question is about burr formation on an asymmetrical knife. I understand about burrs for symmetrical grinds but am confused as to whether the same rules hold for asymmetrical grinds. Does one still try to flip the burr? Does one deburr the same way as before (a light stroke with the edge pro for example per Ben's videos...) on both sides
Finally, while I can feel the burr when I am using a 220 and 400 EP stone, after that at higher grits I don't seem to feel anything even after a long time of sharpening so I simply have been using a magic marker and a 10 5 3 1 1 1 ... pattern until the magic marker is gone and then following by a deburring stroke. The knifes seem pretty sharp doing this in the end but of course I am eager to get the best possible edge for a given grit on my edge pro and from Ben's video the 1000 followed by the 3000 polishing tape ought to be close to surreal for someone coming from a Chef's choice - and I don't think I am in the surreal stage yet although I am in the way beyond my edge pro stage that is fur sure :- ), hence my last question on burrs at higher grits
So my last question is: does the cotton ball trick for burr detection work on higher grits as well or does one need a really high powered loupe to see the burr. If so what does one actually *see* under a loupe anyway at these higher grits if a burr is there.
Or, is it OK to simply assume that since it formed at 220 and 400 it is forming at the higher grits as well after enough strokes..
Anyway my thanks in advance for any help people can give