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Cutting Boards and Magnetic Strips
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Thread: Cutting Boards and Magnetic Strips

  1. #1

    Cutting Boards and Magnetic Strips

    I mentioned recently that I will offer a limited number of boards and magnetic strips, and later will add wall/countertop blocks as well.

    Please fill out a Board Survey Form, so I can get a better idea what people are looking for, or what their preferences are.
    http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index....-boards-survey

    I would like to ask you to also fill a Magnetic Strip Survey, for me to get an idea what the preferred lengh would be.
    http://www.tsourkanknives.com/index....c-strip-survey

    Boards, blocks and strips will be side projects and I will make them in limited numbers. I won't be taking custom orders for these.

    Boards
    Most boards will be 2" thick and will have a low-profile (about 3/16" over the counter top). Another design feature is fingers cutout that allows to move the board around easily. See picture below.

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    I like to use full rows so the width will wary a little bit depending on the thickness of the lumber after it is squared. I will try to get as close as possible to typical widths ( 12, 15, 16, 18").


    Magnetic Strips
    These will be made of some highly figured grain woods I come accross once in a while. Most woods will be domestic, but I will also use (sparingly) tropical hard woods like macassar ebony. Here are a couple of examples of woods that I would use.
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    A typical thickness of a magnetic strip would be 5/8" and a typical width will be 2". Length will vary.


    Thank you,

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  2. #2
    Senior Member
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    These are all beautiful!

  3. #3
    Thanks to the few folks who submitted their input.

    A few of things to clarify.

    The boards will be one-sided and with silicone feet. Low profile (recessed feet) is to reduce the height of the board on the counter top - less strains on your wrists (this worked for my wife). Finger recesses are essential for moving board around - it would be awkward to lift a low-profile board of a counter top without this feature. Besides, these boards are pretty heavy even before they are seasoned with mineral oil, so finger recesses will allow for a good grip. Feet are necessary for air circulation under the board, to prevent slipping and to absorb impact better.

    The magnetic pull on a magnetic strip will vary depending on the amount of carbon in the steel, so I am wondering if I should try to come up with a common-denominator solution that will work for both carbon and stainless, or should make blocks for carbon or stainless knives separately.

    Strips will be chamfered, for an easy separation of knife from the block and will be finished with food safe finishes (mixture of food grade mineral oil and natural waxes).

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  4. #4
    I mentioned no feet, because I'd rather just put a towel under the board and then store the board on its side/on top of removable feet to dry. Can you expand on how the feet would help with absorbing impact?

  5. #5
    16x22" or 18x24" without feet is quite a beast to handle to be honest. I haven't weigh mine (I think it's 15x21), but I would estimate it to be at least 16LB. The recessed feet protrude only 3/16, so I don't think this will be an issue to store the board on its side.

    I tenderize meats on my board, so silicone feet absorb impact from a tenderizer pretty well.


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  6. #6
    Senior Member shankster's Avatar
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    Beautiful looking boards Marko! I think the recessed feet are a great idea and the fact that there's 6 feet instead of just 4.

  7. #7
    Thank you. 12x18 will have 4 feet, all of the other ones will have 6.

    The idea for recessed feet I got from my wife. She is not very tall and for her to use a 2" board, it has to sit as low as possible.

    M


    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

  8. #8
    Senior Member shankster's Avatar
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    Did you add the 2 extra feet on the larger boards for stability or to help prevent warping/sagging in the middle?

  9. #9
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
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    I filled out the board section but the mag bar section appears to be missing now.
    Starting this harvest I'm a starving startling artist/
    Lyrical arsonist it's arduous spitting this smartest arsenic/

  10. #10
    @Theory - Fixed the link, thanks for pointing out.

    Yes, adding 2 extra feet on larger boards allows for extra stability and/or to prevent warping over time (which not entirely sure is the case, but preventive measures can't hurt).

    It seems that majority of the responders preferred walnut to other woods (and single tone to two-tone boards), which is a good news for me, as walnut has the most figure on the end grain. The one below has been my favorite.

    I won't be making maple board at this time.

    M

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    "If there’s something worth doing, it’s worth overdoing.” - An US saying.

    If my KKF Inbox is full (or not), please contact me via Email: anvlts@gmail.com

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