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Thread: New cutting board

  1. #11
    Senior Member Chef Doom's Avatar
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    I see. Man do I feel dumb. A little deductive reasoning could have gone a long way. That really is a nice board. I wonder how the tree gets cut to get it to look that way.
    "Into a country where the jails are full, and the mad houses closed." - Charles Bukowski

  2. #12
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chef Doom View Post
    I see. Man do I feel dumb. A little deductive reasoning could have gone a long way. That really is a nice board. I wonder how the tree gets cut to get it to look that way.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarter_sawing

    for greater stability and less warping..

    D

  3. #13
    Still Plays With Blocks
    The BoardSMITH's Avatar
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    Look again. The wood is rift sawn. Similar to quarter sawn but not quite there.

  4. #14
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The BoardSMITH View Post
    Look again. The wood is rift sawn. Similar to quarter sawn but not quite there.
    you are absolutely right!

    wld prefer to use quarter sawn or at least the ring lines viewed from the side to be greater than 60 degrees for better stability.

    Thast what I picked up from the youtube channel.. "wood whisperer"

    d

  5. #15
    Senior Member Notaskinnychef's Avatar
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    since getting my board 4 months ago ive used 3 pints of mineral oil. its 20x20x3 and it sucks that stuff up. damn thing keeps getting heavier lol

  6. #16
    Still Plays With Blocks
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notaskinnychef View Post
    since getting my board 4 months ago ive used 3 pints of mineral oil. its 20x20x3 and it sucks that stuff up. damn thing keeps getting heavier lol
    That is to much oil. Oil as needed when the area used most turns a little lighter than the surrounding area. In this case, a little will go a long way and less is better.

  7. #17
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    Max did all the work on this board. All I did was send him a piece that I had drum sanded to make flat and even thickness.
    It was a piece that was next to a large crotch. That is why the grain is going all over the place.
    The feather portion of this went to a luthier. Max's piece was the portion next to the feather.
    Mark Farley / It's a Burl
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  8. #18
    Getting in late, but that's a beautiful piece of wood. As far as cracking and contamination. Wood has a natural antibacterial property that, along with a good cleaning regimen, kills bacteria and mold on it's own. That is why wood is so much better than plastic. Once the food particles and bacteria get in the cracks and cuts (on plastic) it is very difficult to get them out. It is recommended that you let the board "rest" for 24 hrs. after washing to allow the wood to kill the bacteria, which is a great reason to have an assortment of boards. I myself have some sort of a fetish for cutting boards anyway.

    In the past I have drilled holes through the board (across the grain) and inserted threaded rods though them to hold everything in place. Just countersink the ends, fill with epoxy, snug the nuts and cap the ends. Either with the same wood or with a lighter or darker one to add cosmetic affect.

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