I see. Man do I feel dumb. A little deductive reasoning could have gone a long way. That really is a nice board. I wonder how the tree gets cut to get it to look that way.
I see. Man do I feel dumb. A little deductive reasoning could have gone a long way. That really is a nice board. I wonder how the tree gets cut to get it to look that way.
"Into a country where the jails are full, and the mad houses closed." - Charles Bukowski
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quarter_sawing
for greater stability and less warping..
D
Look again. The wood is rift sawn. Similar to quarter sawn but not quite there.
David - Formerly The BoardSMITH
Now just retired and looking for work
since getting my board 4 months ago ive used 3 pints of mineral oil. its 20x20x3 and it sucks that stuff up. damn thing keeps getting heavier lol
Max did all the work on this board. All I did was send him a piece that I had drum sanded to make flat and even thickness.
It was a piece that was next to a large crotch. That is why the grain is going all over the place.
The feather portion of this went to a luthier. Max's piece was the portion next to the feather.
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Getting in late, but that's a beautiful piece of wood. As far as cracking and contamination. Wood has a natural antibacterial property that, along with a good cleaning regimen, kills bacteria and mold on it's own. That is why wood is so much better than plastic. Once the food particles and bacteria get in the cracks and cuts (on plastic) it is very difficult to get them out. It is recommended that you let the board "rest" for 24 hrs. after washing to allow the wood to kill the bacteria, which is a great reason to have an assortment of boards. I myself have some sort of a fetish for cutting boards anyway.
In the past I have drilled holes through the board (across the grain) and inserted threaded rods though them to hold everything in place. Just countersink the ends, fill with epoxy, snug the nuts and cap the ends. Either with the same wood or with a lighter or darker one to add cosmetic affect.