Quantcast
Microbevels
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 11

Thread: Microbevels

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bay area
    Posts
    470

    Microbevels

    So I am starting to think I haven't been making them right on my edge pro, or, at the very least, have been working too hard at making them and crave some advice from more experienced edge pro folks:

    What I basically do for softer steels like in a Victorinox is first thin it by running through a progression up to 1000 grit at say 15 degrees, raising a burr at each stage. Then I lift the edge pro to 20 degrees and raise a burr at 1000 at 20 degrees, then I use a 1200 grit stone and a polishing tape to polish to finish the 20 degree angle.

    Is this overkill for the microbevel? It occasionally seems like this process makes the microbevel a bit too large when I look at it under a microscope.

    For example, can I just make a handful of strokes at 1000 grid and be done with it? Is there any real advantage to going up to finer grits on my microbevel?

    TIA

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    sydney,nsw
    Posts
    411
    when i make my microbevels i just use between a 3000-10000 grit stone depending on the knife and steel but as far as i know the idea is to take off as little metal as possible and form a very small bevel nothing large it just a reinforcement. therefore using higher grit stones you take off less metal and have more accurate control over the microbevel i may be wrong though im no sharpening veteren

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Central, NJ
    Posts
    510
    I too use just my high grit stones, I dont have victorinox, but on others when I want a micro, I use either my highest grit or highest 2 grit stone that I used to sharpen the knife.

  4. #4
    Not edgepro, but freehanding I just put one on with my final stone in the progression.
    one man gathers what another man spills...

  5. #5
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Amstelveen, The Netherlands
    Posts
    2,087
    Quote Originally Posted by chinacats View Post
    Not edgepro, but freehanding I just put one on with my final stone in the progression.
    +1
    That being said, my progression with soft stainless is very, very short: Chosera 400, and a few very light stropping - edge trailing - strokes on a Chosera 800.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Mrmnms's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Long Island
    Posts
    969
    I think your sequence should be great for the Victorianox/ Forschners . Sometimes I strop with a 2000 grit Shapton Pro and bc paste on Forshners. Nice toothy edge but I think stropping extends the life of the edge.

  7. #7
    When I used an EP for sharpening a Japanese knives I would backbevel at 12 degs (ish) and then create a primary cutting edge (micro-bevel) at 15 deg (ish) using ONLY polishing stones or tapes. I feel that doing a micro bevel with a coarse stone makes for a big ole wire edges that don't hold up whereas using your polishing stones (or tapes) for a micro bevel helps to remove the wire edge through refinement. And BTW, nothing makes a wire edge like an EP so no matter what you do for edge creation you should do that much and then some for edge refinement/deburring post burr creation.

  8. #8
    Senior Member ThEoRy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Central Jersey
    Posts
    3,023
    I don't know about edge pro either, but freehand on single bevel knives if I want a micro bevel it's usually with a high grit stone 5-12k depending on the knife. The angle is a bit higher than what you are describing as well. Maybe 35 degrees or so. Don't forget to remove the burr you just created as well.
    Starting this harvest I'm a starving startling artist/
    Lyrical arsonist it's arduous spitting this smartest arsenic/

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    charlotte, nc
    Posts
    1,328
    for dexter and victorinox, thin with coarse, go upto medium on that same bevel, do micro with medium stone, then strop. use a grooved steel when edge starts to weaken then strop again.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    1,319
    Agree wt. Victorinox I never take it beyond 2K.I too like to kick in final bevel on say a 4K,finer burr on high grits,lite touch on stone to remove burr.

    Alot of students have combo stones,have them thin on coarser grit.On finer polish backbevel at same low angle,then put in final bevel.On my Gesshin Uraku 240 been thinning both sides & mico just on right my cutting side.Learned this tech. fr. Jon,works well wt. the Uraku.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •