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- Jan 13, 2013
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So I am starting to think I haven't been making them right on my edge pro, or, at the very least, have been working too hard at making them and crave some advice from more experienced edge pro folks:
What I basically do for softer steels like in a Victorinox is first thin it by running through a progression up to 1000 grit at say 15 degrees, raising a burr at each stage. Then I lift the edge pro to 20 degrees and raise a burr at 1000 at 20 degrees, then I use a 1200 grit stone and a polishing tape to polish to finish the 20 degree angle.
Is this overkill for the microbevel? It occasionally seems like this process makes the microbevel a bit too large when I look at it under a microscope.
For example, can I just make a handful of strokes at 1000 grid and be done with it? Is there any real advantage to going up to finer grits on my microbevel?
TIA
What I basically do for softer steels like in a Victorinox is first thin it by running through a progression up to 1000 grit at say 15 degrees, raising a burr at each stage. Then I lift the edge pro to 20 degrees and raise a burr at 1000 at 20 degrees, then I use a 1200 grit stone and a polishing tape to polish to finish the 20 degree angle.
Is this overkill for the microbevel? It occasionally seems like this process makes the microbevel a bit too large when I look at it under a microscope.
For example, can I just make a handful of strokes at 1000 grid and be done with it? Is there any real advantage to going up to finer grits on my microbevel?
TIA