How to clean up grind marks on face of blade?

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andygraybeal

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What are the methods to cleaning up grind marks left from the stone?

I would love to have it be a mirror polished. Would I do this with a motorized buffing wheel?

I've been thinning my Hiromoto AS wagyuto 300mm. DwarvenChef recommended that I get this in Oct 2009, in knifeforums.com It's my first and only gyuto and I love it.
 
if you have a strop and if the scratches aren't deep, you can strop the blade face til it gets a mirror finish. or buy sandpaper in increasing higher grit and hand sand it til shiny. =D
 
Wet dry automotive sandpaper in increasing grits, then micromesh polishing pads, then finish with flitz. Then wash, dry and rub with tsubiki oil.
 
Anybody ever use these things:
http://www.**************.com/misu3x4sopa.html

I like teir ability to polish and remove scratches, though I may be missing a step with some sandpaper as this thread would allude.
Also, the seem to go relatively quickly with regular use, does anyone have a different vender that I could consider?

Also, are these goo for removing rust or a patina? Havent tried that yet.

Thanks!
 
i just use barkeeper's friend for removing rust and patina. doesn't leave too deep scratches that way.
 
Anybody ever use these things:
http://www.**************.com/misu3x4sopa.html

I like teir ability to polish and remove scratches, though I may be missing a step with some sandpaper as this thread would allude.
Also, the seem to go relatively quickly with regular use, does anyone have a different vender that I could consider?

Also, are these goo for removing rust or a patina? Havent tried that yet.

Thanks!

I use those after 800 grit wet dry sandpaper use with wa powders from JNS for a nice kasumi finish
 

I am rather new around here and certainly not want to offend site admins, but this removal of links to certain web pages is sometimes really contra-productive. Is it really necessary? I have not experienced it anywhere else. In this particular case I have no idea what kind of tool was meant as the link that could have given the idea is gone.
 
I am rather new around here and certainly not want to offend site admins, but this removal of links to certain web pages is sometimes really contra-productive. Is it really necessary? I have not experienced it anywhere else. In this particular case I have no idea what kind of tool was meant as the link that could have given the idea is gone.

micro mesh pads, it's what Theory recommended and you can get them at amazon...there is only one web site ***'d out and they suck...
 
Remove the scratches with sandpaper or on the stones, then take it to a 1000 grit paper finish (just stay with the same piece until it becomes very worn and completely loaded, equivalent to a 2k stone finish). It will give you a misty kind of mirror. Just make sure there aren't any deep scratches left. Then hit it with Mothers mag & aluminium polish on a rag and you will get results like this.

 
Remove the scratches with sandpaper or on the stones, then take it to a 1000 grit paper finish (just stay with the same piece until it becomes very worn and completely loaded, equivalent to a 2k stone finish). It will give you a misty kind of mirror. Just make sure there aren't any deep scratches left. Then hit it with Mothers mag & aluminium polish on a rag and you will get results like this.


So this product is better than Bar Keepers friend? That shine is brilliant, the hammer looks awesome!

I also sharpen scythe blades with a peening hammer and anvil and both need to be extremely shiny to give good feedback in the sharpening process... i need to learn your skills for just thing thing!
 
barkeeper's friend is just for removing the dirt and rust.

that mother's stuff is for refining scratches =D
 
Remove the scratches with sandpaper or on the stones, then take it to a 1000 grit paper finish (just stay with the same piece until it becomes very worn and completely loaded, equivalent to a 2k stone finish). It will give you a misty kind of mirror. Just make sure there aren't any deep scratches left. Then hit it with Mothers mag & aluminium polish on a rag and you will get results like this.


That looks amazing, nice work!
 
Remove the scratches with sandpaper or on the stones, then take it to a 1000 grit paper finish (just stay with the same piece until it becomes very worn and completely loaded, equivalent to a 2k stone finish). It will give you a misty kind of mirror. Just make sure there aren't any deep scratches left. Then hit it with Mothers mag & aluminium polish on a rag and you will get results like this.


Can you just get that stuff at a hardware store like Lowe's?

Also, same with the bar keeper's friend?
 
bar keeper's friend can be found in restaurant supply stores, hardware stores, general stores would probably have them. if you can't find any, there's always online. it's only 2 bucks. out here it's more like 4 bucks and change, though.

flitz is a metal polishing compound.
 
I would love to have it be a mirror polished.
I'm not sure this is a good idea. The stainless clad is soft, very soft. On a mirror polished face you see the smallest scratch caused in daily use. My Hiromoto has a mat finish maintained with coarse ScotchBrite.
 
Can you just get that stuff at a hardware store like Lowe's?

Also, same with the bar keeper's friend?

Lowes typically carriers Bar Keepers Friend, as do most grocery stores (in the US) in my experience. I believe Ace Hardware carries some Mothers car detailing products, and may carry Bar Keepers Friend as well.
 
I'm not sure this is a good idea. The stainless clad is soft, very soft. On a mirror polished face you see the smallest scratch caused in daily use. My Hiromoto has a mat finish maintained with coarse ScotchBrite.

Thank you Benuser! I'll keep in mind what you said.
 
How many uses do you guys typically get out of a set of micro mesh pads?
 
I just removed from scratches I created while reprofiling an aeb-l edge too sharply. I followed the advice on these boards and bought 3M wet/dry sandpaper. I gradually increased from 320,400,600,800 and 1000 grit. I made sanding blocks from scrap 1 x 4 pine I had lying around. It worked beautifully. The finish was fantastic and not too mirror like. The scratches are not detectable except by a 30x loupe. I was reluctant to try, but it turned out fantastic and I'd recommend to anyone. You may not want the 1000 grit and you can dicontinue the process anywhere along the way.
 
I just removed from scratches I created while reprofiling an aeb-l edge too sharply. I followed the advice on these boards and bought 3M wet/dry sandpaper. I gradually increased from 320,400,600,800 and 1000 grit. I made sanding blocks from scrap 1 x 4 pine I had lying around. It worked beautifully. The finish was fantastic and not too mirror like. The scratches are not detectable except by a 30x loupe. I was reluctant to try, but it turned out fantastic and I'd recommend to anyone. You may not want the 1000 grit and you can discontinue the process anywhere along the way. (corrected for spellin)
 
I tried to do the same with a 'practice' pos stainless knife after i destroyed it trying to thin it out. I had to start with emery cloth (coarse-med-fine) before the 320 automotive wet/dry showed ANY effect. After the emery cloth, it was smooth sailing and I took it all the way up tp 2500. Looks pretty good for an absolute piece of junk! :)

Chris
 
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