New paring knife design

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Delbert Ealy

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I have a customer that wanted a paring knife with a bit longer blade and a bit slimmer as well. You would think that designing these little knives would be a cinch, but they are a real bugger. This is the 5th or 6th one I have done. The blade is 3 inches long.
I took the pic alongside one of my regular parings for comparison. Let me know what you guys think.
Thanks,
Del


100_1373.jpg
 
I think the additional length would be welcomed as some paring knives are a tad short imo, granted ive got big hands but I think this is a good idea
 
I like it Del - would make a great EDC too.
 
I like it, now we need a sheepsfoot.


I'll work on one, just for you. I know you have brought this up a few times, so I guess it's time. I can be stubborn occasionally, but I'm feeling in a creative mood.
I did a santuko a few weeks ago to a customers design. It is one of those I have tried to stay away from, but it may be time for that as well. That one turned out really well though and it's got me thinking.
Del
 
I'm liking the thinner profile, the way the blade comes together at the tip. I think in doing this you open the knife up to more functionality, more versatility. which in turn will probably generate more work/sales for you, which could actually be a bad thing!
But I'm digging it, and will most certainly use this as an excuse to buy another knife from you
 
While I like this new design as a new knife - I am impressed with the paring knife I received a couple weeks ago. It is like the perfect small boning/caping knife as I found out on that duck last weekend. I could skin and clean rabbit, squirrel, woodchuck, some fish, etc. with this knife no problemo. Offer both but never let the old design go by the wayside - it's gold.

As a side note my HHH wharncliffe paring knife is the perfect compliment - just sayin'.
 
Like the new design, but must admit, the old one does look a little problematic to me, with its large belly and high tip. The old one would need a very awkward grip, all over the blade, I'm afraid, and some kind of rocking motion I'm not used to.
 
Like the new design, but must admit, the old one does look a little problematic to me, with its large belly and high tip. The old one would need a very awkward grip, all over the blade, I'm afraid, and some kind of rocking motion I'm not used to.

Nothing awkward about the old one - it's probably the best paring knife I've ever used - very surgical.
 
I am working on a sheet of AEBL right now, cutting blades out, getting them ready to heat treat. I'll post some pics later on. I think part of the popularity of these is that while quite a few makers will make the larger chefs knives, none of them think about the smaller knives. Fo me I like them and playing with the design is fun, but like I said earlier its not always easy. I told a fried yesterday that the difference between a knife that is right and one that is almost right is like the difference between a fire and a picture of a fire.
My original paring knife design has proven its worth and I will continue to make them, but I will continue to add a design here and there.


Thanks,
Del
 
Just got one of the original pairing knives the other day and used it to hull a bunch of strawberries. The wider/more bellied than usual blase seems like it would not so well with this task but it performed amazingly well. Better than any other paring knife I own (sab, and array of forschners). Still in the honeymoon phase of course but so far I am very pleased. New shape looks nice too though.
 
I like the new one too and agree with all the previous comments. Can't wait to see it with a handle.
 
I'll work on one, just for you. I know you have brought this up a few times, so I guess it's time. I can be stubborn occasionally, but I'm feeling in a creative mood.
I did a santuko a few weeks ago to a customers design. It is one of those I have tried to stay away from, but it may be time for that as well. That one turned out really well though and it's got me thinking.
Del
thank you, brother Del

I like my sheep's foot with the tip sticking out just a little bit further than most. about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in length no more then a 1/2 inch wide. thin but, not overly flexy. maple and redwood stamped with a #3 Thank you for your support.
son
son
 
I also think the new design is the way to go. Seems like a perfect all around parer shape & length.

IMHO, making some available with synthetic handles (canvas/linen micarta?) would be a good idea, especially for pros. Something grippy for staying locked into the palm when working off the board, and also a material able to handle wet/acidic stuff since paring knives tend to get laid down on the board or used under or around running water.

I know I'd be reluctant to put one of your beautiful wood handles through the abuse my paring knives endure.
 
I also think the new design is the way to go. Seems like a perfect all around parer shape & length.

IMHO, making some available with synthetic handles (canvas/linen micarta?) would be a good idea, especially for pros. Something grippy for staying locked into the palm when working off the board, and also a material able to handle wet/acidic stuff since paring knives tend to get laid down on the board or used under or around running water.

I know I'd be reluctant to put one of your beautiful wood handles through the abuse my paring knives endure.

Most of the woods I use are stabilized, and those that are not are woods that are very hard and can take it.
I have used some synthetics in the past, but with the stabilization you get the beauty of the wood and the durability of the synthetic(or most of it anyway)
I know Butch uses a lot of the stuff he makes up, and he sells everything he makes.
Maybe I will try a bit of synthetic, if I can find something interesting.
Del
 
I might just be a big sissy...

Seriously though, I only have 1 really nice handle right now, and one on the way, so my actual experience is very limited. I know those stabilized hardwoods are quite durable, I'm just afraid to screw 'em up.
 
"...sheep's foot with the tip sticking out just a little bit further than most. about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in length no more then a 1/2 inch wide. thin but, not overly flexy."

+1 on this idea
 
"...sheep's foot with the tip sticking out just a little bit further than most. about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in length no more then a 1/2 inch wide. thin but, not overly flexy."

+2 on this

When they're ready I'd like a sheep's foot and a 4 inch paring sent my way, both in snakewood if possible.
 
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