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Thread: New paring knife design

  1. #21
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    The new profile looks just about perfect for your new four inch pairing.

  2. #22
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    sachem allison's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delbert Ealy View Post
    I'll work on one, just for you. I know you have brought this up a few times, so I guess it's time. I can be stubborn occasionally, but I'm feeling in a creative mood.
    I did a santuko a few weeks ago to a customers design. It is one of those I have tried to stay away from, but it may be time for that as well. That one turned out really well though and it's got me thinking.
    Del
    thank you, brother Del

    I like my sheep's foot with the tip sticking out just a little bit further than most. about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in length no more then a 1/2 inch wide. thin but, not overly flexy. maple and redwood stamped with a #3 Thank you for your support.
    son
    son
    I haven't lived the life I wanted, just the lives I needed too at the time.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Chefdog's Avatar
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    I also think the new design is the way to go. Seems like a perfect all around parer shape & length.

    IMHO, making some available with synthetic handles (canvas/linen micarta?) would be a good idea, especially for pros. Something grippy for staying locked into the palm when working off the board, and also a material able to handle wet/acidic stuff since paring knives tend to get laid down on the board or used under or around running water.

    I know I'd be reluctant to put one of your beautiful wood handles through the abuse my paring knives endure.

  4. #24
    Delbert Ealy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chefdog View Post
    I also think the new design is the way to go. Seems like a perfect all around parer shape & length.

    IMHO, making some available with synthetic handles (canvas/linen micarta?) would be a good idea, especially for pros. Something grippy for staying locked into the palm when working off the board, and also a material able to handle wet/acidic stuff since paring knives tend to get laid down on the board or used under or around running water.

    I know I'd be reluctant to put one of your beautiful wood handles through the abuse my paring knives endure.
    Most of the woods I use are stabilized, and those that are not are woods that are very hard and can take it.
    I have used some synthetics in the past, but with the stabilization you get the beauty of the wood and the durability of the synthetic(or most of it anyway)
    I know Butch uses a lot of the stuff he makes up, and he sells everything he makes.
    Maybe I will try a bit of synthetic, if I can find something interesting.
    Del

    Laminated metals specialist, Kitchen knife and gadget maker
    www.ealyknives.com
    www.mokume-jewelry.net
    "Build a man a fire and he will be warm for a day, set a man on fire and he will be warm for the rest of his life"

  5. #25
    Senior Member Chefdog's Avatar
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    I might just be a big sissy...

    Seriously though, I only have 1 really nice handle right now, and one on the way, so my actual experience is very limited. I know those stabilized hardwoods are quite durable, I'm just afraid to screw 'em up.

  6. #26
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    "...sheep's foot with the tip sticking out just a little bit further than most. about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in length no more then a 1/2 inch wide. thin but, not overly flexy."

    +1 on this idea

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by markk View Post
    "...sheep's foot with the tip sticking out just a little bit further than most. about 2 1/2 to 3 inches in length no more then a 1/2 inch wide. thin but, not overly flexy."

    +2 on this
    When they're ready I'd like a sheep's foot and a 4 inch paring sent my way, both in snakewood if possible.

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