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Tru oil for handle and saya protection
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Thread: Tru oil for handle and saya protection

  1. #1
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    Tru oil for handle and saya protection

    My recent discovery of Tru oil is an excitement as I wanted to have a somewhat non-washing-away protective coating on handles and sayas.
    I applied the oil on a few different wood and the resulting finish varies.
    As the conditions of handles/sayas are different and humidity/temp/air flow affect the time to dry, I can understand different finish, however, I am not happy about the resulting finish of the oil on ebony; takes too long time to dry and even after a couple of days, I do not get the feel of complete driness - it's dry but somewhat feel stickness - I don't know how else I can explain it.

    What has been your experience of the tru oil on your handles/sayas of different wood??

    Thanks.

    Karl

  2. #2
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    if its going sticky doesent that mean that its not very good to put on wood?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jai View Post
    if its going sticky doesent that mean that its not very good to put on wood?
    That is the part that I want to confirm; I'd like to find out if I have to apply it only on certain wood.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Jmadams13's Avatar
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    It's used in the gun world a lot, but never heard of it bein used on kitchen knives. Try Tung oil, I've been using it for a while, ad love it. Stays "wet" looking, but dry and smooth to the touch after buffing. Does dry out after a while and after a lot of washing, but I only have to re-apply once every few months after daily use.

    I've used tru oil on a camping knife, rosewood scales I think, and it wasnt that strong of a finish, and didnt help with weather proofing at all. I used it when backpacking in the smokeys, so high humidity. Same conditions as a kitchen.
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    knyfeknerd's Avatar
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    Tru Oil doesn't incorporate well into all types of wood. Some of the more oily woods barely soak it in. If it feels sticky, it will eventually dry. It has taken almost a 3-4 days for mine to dry completely. Start slow and light, try to apply an even coat. Too much will gunk up and look bad.
    When completely dry, sand and apply again until you reach the desired finish.
    Some woods just don't need it though. Renaissance wax is great for a lot of things that Tru doesn't work on.
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    pure tung oil takes forever to dry though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by knyfeknerd View Post
    Tru Oil doesn't incorporate well into all types of wood. Some of the more oily woods barely soak it in. If it feels sticky, it will eventually dry. It has taken almost a 3-4 days for mine to dry completely. Start slow and light, try to apply an even coat. Too much will gunk up and look bad.
    When completely dry, sand and apply again until you reach the desired finish.
    Some woods just don't need it though. Renaissance wax is great for a lot of things that Tru doesn't work on.
    +1, Tru Oil does not seem to work well with oily woods, even after a few days it can feel tacky. Stick with a wax, I like the Birchwood Casey gunstock wax, where Tru Oil does not pan out.

  8. #8
    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    I like to use TruOil finish. It gives a nice, natural looking finish with a very thin film.

    I typically apply generously the first coat, let absorb for 10 min then wipe out excess and let it dry 12-24 hours. Then I scrub the area with 0000 steel wool and apply a second coat, this time just enough to cover the surface (less will be absorbed). After 3-4 coats, you get a nice, satin finish on your wood, while preserving the natural look. Very important to let TruOil dry before re-coating. I don't like leave the excess on and sand it when it is dried - it doesn't dry uniformly and it gums your paper and leaves smudges on the piece.

    M


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    Ok...the way how I applied is somewhat consistent (tru oil + 0000 steel wool + thin coat + 3~4 application)
    with what Marko described. So, I am glad to find that out. :-)
    It appears that what I experienced is not unique to me and there is variation of result for different wood.
    For a ho wood handle and one of Mario's handle, I was very pleased with the outcome but I could not replicate the same level of finish with other handles.
    Looks like I will have to wait longer time to dry.

    Thank you all.

    Karl

  10. #10
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    Afaik tru oil is a blend of tung oil, so similar effect. I find it slow to dry on oily woods, so tend to put a coat on, when dry sand smooth and then buff with wax (I use a mix of beeswax with carnauba and mineral oil). Best result I've had is on natural koa. My bottle has started to gum up now so I'd be mindful of shelf life, around 6months in my experience.

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