I do love my 4X36. It isn't exactly the classic tool for sharpening but it has served me well. I've recently started using diamond sprays on the leather belt in lieu of the green chromium. I haven't been using it long enough to really get a good feel for it, but it seems like it's a lot less forgiving than the chromium. Time and experience will tell if the diamond is a better fit, but I do love how power stropping cleans up the burrs and leaves the edge.
Hi Very comprehensive and appreciate your insights based on your experience.
1. I do most of my deburring on an appropriate rod based on teh required grit as cutting action on the rod is fast. Still like teh leather strop made of cow hide adn preference is to use the raw hide with red compound jeweller's rouge.
2. Deburring leather wheel on the Tormek.. dont like it as it wobbles when it turns. IN addition it will introduce some element of convexity.
3. Leather on my 42 x1 inch belt grinder.. Belt is misssing and i dont l miss it as it is too aggressive on thin edges.
4. Buffing wheel. Too aggressive but I use it at time when knife is on lower grits adn the angle and not too acute. You are absolutely right. at the possible danger. Can fly into legs or body!.
a) Edge always in in direction of the spin. NEVER into the wheel as it can grab and spin it somewhere dangerousl;y
b) use only area below the spindle
c) ALways wear thick gloves.. JUst in case unless you plan to get bionic fingers
d) Safety is of paramount consideration. always
HAving said the above.. great for polishing the spine.
IN the final analysis, I still go back on a piece of leather as I can control the pressure adn any wheels will always introduce some convexity. SOmeday I will try buffing on wheels but the wheel is made of cloth and not hemp. I suppose it will be finer.
Stay safe and stay sharp with whatever you are doing.. adn hv fun..
If you're using a sisal/hemp mop for stropping no wonder you find it aggressive, they're typically recommended for surface prep with coarse compounds....
Originally Posted by zitangy
Thanks for the insight.... I am now motivated to try it. Will wash one of them.. cloth wheel ( loose and not compact) that i use for polishing wood with carnuba wax as it is too waxy now and try it. Wld be a good combination on teh buffing wheel.. a) for more aggressive work.. polishing of blades and b) for finer deburring and polishing.
Originally Posted by TB_London
Much appreciated as I am technically and mechanically slow if not challenged. Takes me a while to figure things out.
Thanks for the great topic Dave!
This is a revelation lol. I absolutely hate having to stand over my 1x30 trying to eyeball my edge angle.
Originally Posted by Dave Martell
Speaking of 1x30's...have you modified yours in any way to account for belt tensioning? I used to use belts to sharpen almost exclusively. Its just been recently with the kitchen knives that I've been using plates etc. My biggest problem was that my higher end belts (3m trizact, etc) were larger...sometimes substantially larger than the wheel arrangement on my sander, making them unusable without literally destroying the edge, along with the polish of the blade for 1/4" above it.
Also, have you ever used felt belts? If so...what are your thoughts?
I've used every type of belt (in almost every grit size) that I've been able to locate in my 2x48" size and before that I could just about say the same for the 1x30 I used to use. The felt belts that I've been able to find haven't been so great for edge work, better suited for polishing blades....well kinda'. I've been considering trying to make my own felt belts but after making leather belts I'm sort of not in love with the idea but I should really try it, could be my next love affair.
The little 1x30" sanders sure don't offer much in the way of tension adjustment. I dremeled the slot out on mine to give me more adjust-ability yet that didn't really help too much. I had a similar problem with my Coote when the leather belts stretch and with that I modified the tensioner and spring to allow for a lot more tension adjust-ability and it works great. That's one thing that I have to have - tight belts for sharpening.
Paradox that looks like a Kalamazoo sander.I am no expert but really like mine 1 X 42 belts.Nice Shop
Thank you. Yep that is my Kally. Love it too. I just got some linen belts from Klingspor. Trying out some diamond paste and sprays on them to see what I like.
new member with a few ?'s
I found the forum looking for cleaning strop surgi-sharp belt. I've got quite a bit of build up on it and I've used the outside & inside (with inside getting quickest results). Anyway I'll try some light sand paper or scotchbrite light abrasives to refresh & maybe some saddle soap/oil to condition.
also I'm contemplating going to Norton ceramic blaze 120 grit & or the 3m Trizact gator 120 - 240 grit belts
I definately need something in the early process that can eat damaged blades to reshape & last
any 60-80 grit recomendations ?
Brilliant post. I have never tried this on a belt, but I used a 14inch bench mounted disc sander with a thick leather pad on it for years to strop woodworking tools. You either had to have a very firm grip or use a jig as the wheel can grab the tool of you are careless. The widest thing I ever stropped though was a 4 inch plane blade. I knife is a whole different ball game. I am tempted to try fixing up a small belt sander and mounting it in a vice to see if this works. Belts tend to run at quite high speed and I suspect this is an issue. Have you managed to regulate speed so that there is minimal heat build up on the blade?
How do you join the belt ends for this purpose by the way?