The finest stones I have today is the white one on the sharp maker. But I have now ordered a King 1000/6000 too. It just feels strange to me that the Sharpmaker which works wonders on all my other knives including Carbon suddenly makes this lovely knife completely useless. I want to learn and understand what parameters are causing what you see on the pics. If it's me, the knife, the sharpmaker or a combo of everything. The feeling I get is that the knife cracks into pcs more than that it's me or the sharpmaker..
I will give it some more time with the white stones, flat side and as gentle as possible without dropping the knife. Still, I'm confused.
are you using the flat side of the ceramic sticks or the corners? just curious..i find the flat sides allow you to move much more slowly in terms of sharpening.
i hope i never lose my sharpmaker. i love mine. mine is so old it comes in a pouch and not that black plastic box thing. the only knife i cannot sharpen with my SM is my vintage Case pocket knife..i think i need something more aggressive.
I started with the basics meaning like 20 strokes on corners, 20 on flat. First brown then white stick. After this it became crap. Then some suggested to go with just flat sides and release on the pressure. Did so but still crap.. I will return the knife to be re-sharpenned because something must have been not OK from the start.
Im with Benuser on this one. Looks like you are not sharpening the edge, but thinning behind it. And because you have done so many passes on each side, all that is left is a weak, fatigued wire edge that is chipping as you continue to flip the burr. I would try the sharpie trick for sure.
I dont know if you can say that something has not been ok from the start... even though it was not "sharp enough for you" the main problems you are seeing are from a sharpening attempt.
According to the vendor, edge grinds are slightly asymmetric, which is probably an euphemism. Expect something like 12 degree on the right side, and some 18 degree on the other one. I guess he will be more than willing to put a decent edge on it for free, and refund your shipping costs, but there is no reason to blame the blade, and ask for its replacement. The Sharpmaker is a far from adequate instrument to change geometry as you've tried.
Could it be the first pic in post no. 7 reflects the situation on the left side? In that case, deburring at 20 degree would solve - for the time being - your problem.
Pull your knife through block of wood 5 times, then a piece of cork 10 times, sharpen again very carefully then strop on cardboard.
I will agree with those that it appears you aren't hitting the edge. I would try sharpening at a slightly higher angle, but take care not to remove much metal to keep it thin behind the edge.
1. Any tool used incorrectly will not get you the desired outcome.
2. A sharp knife must have 2 requisites.. a) teh 2 angles must meet b) thin enough.
alot of problems are around a) making 2 angles meet as we get burrs.. folded edges or when they are straightened out either a wire edge which I suspect in this case or a weak edge ( straight but weak) as the integrity of the edge metal has been compromised. Like a paper clip, fold it a few times adn it is weak.
3, You have to understand that being a new knife, the thinness shld be there and only it just needs to be straightened out or have the wire edge removed adn then refined. IN your case, i suspect that you did it so many times (50) your wld have removed the primary edge and teh new primary edge has receeded backwards leaving it thicker now. Thus a lower angle wld be required to set the secondary bevel and have a thin edge. Normally, a deburring on a new knife wld be say lightly 3 strokes per side ( assuming that this will break teh burr) adn teh following the alternate 3strokes per side to make it pointy ( refinement of the edge as I assume that once the burr /fold is broken, it leaves a rounded edge.
4. I prefer cutting strokes as that will force the burr/ fold to break rather than spine leading strokes as that will open/ unfold the burrs adn pray for it to eventually break. Light cutting strokes as we are dealing with a very thin edge no more than 0.04mm (?) so be gentle with it.
5. Deburring on a strop for me is just for" polishing" as one has to be very sharp that it is not a wire edge as you are folding adn unfolding the wire edge. THis even I prefer slightly thicker leather adn a little soft so that hopefully I get a convex edge ( I imagine so). THus it will be terminated at a higher angle.. better chance of breaking any folds and wire edge.
IN teh final analysis, its all about steel removal, how minute the amount you need to shave off and the 2 variables are your a) pressure b) grit. Then only can you determine what grit, adn pressure to achieve teh desired outcome.
I am certain, that the sharpmaker used correctly is a fine tool
You need to get stoned.. I mean use the stones as it wld be faster adn efficient to do so as it presents a bigger contact area.
Know the outome desired based on the present condition of the knife ( sharpness etc) adn tehn decide how much metal adn where on the edge adn then choose the correct stones, pressure adn angle of attack . Every stroke shld have a purpose adn not just blindly rubbing stone to teh metal.
The Burr is yr friend. it tells you that enough steel removal has been done and time to flip over., repeat teh process. After that is is just breaking off the burr adn refining the edge to make it pointy and no weakened or wire edge please..
have fun adn stay sharp..
But what made the combination so destructive? Is it that the knife is very thin and the sharpmaker very aggressive meaning I should have done only like 5 strokes?
1. I used only the 15 degree angle and the papers that came along with the knife recommended 15 degree angle.
2. Sharpmaker instructions says around 20 strokes per side and stick which I started with. After this it became useless and the primary egg looked as the pictures. I hardly could come through a paper after this. No other knife have been dull using the sharpmaker in the same way. They get very sharp.
The knife has a White #1 core with stainless steel cladding if that could matter.