Quantcast
Mousepad + sandpaper
+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Mousepad + sandpaper

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bay area
    Posts
    456

    Mousepad + sandpaper

    You don't hear much about this anymore for general edge maintenance even though Chad Ward recommends it.

    My question though is has anyone tried this for general thinning of knives as opposed to waterstones? It seems like it would be a lot more forgiving of beginner mistakes than a set of (expensive) waterstones :- ). It works pretty darn well for maintaining an edge of course as Chad Ward pointed out in his great book - but he doesn't mention it as being equally good for general thinning way up the blade.

    TIA

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    bay area, california
    Posts
    515
    i did..

    i couldnt get the right moves down. it did work on an axe tho.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    118
    I've only used this once to make my Becker camping knife to have a nice convex geometry, so I can't say that I'm an expert. But, I remember spending good 2 days of mindless edge trailing swipes. It was recommended to me to only use edge trailing strokes, which slows the the process considerably (I'd say by a factor or 5 to 10, time-wise). I can see that if you are not thinning the whole blade width, but just 1/8-1/4 inch or so from the edge, it could work out well. Do you prefer the mouse pad method?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Bay area
    Posts
    456
    Not really, I mostly use an edge pro pro, I just was reading Chad Ward's book so I tried it with some high grit wet dry sandpaper I had lying around on a swiss army knife which are always convex out of box, worked real well on the edge so I was simply curious why nobody ever mentions it for thining and now your post explains it..

  5. #5
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    SIngapore
    Posts
    496
    I do it at times when needed or prefer not to be at the kitchen sink.( sharpening station)

    1. it has a big surface area and hence great for thinning of the whole blade.

    2. I use low grit when I have to scrape off ( say at 45 degrees) to remove a small chip. Great also to round the spine

    3.Which mouse pad? I look for the correct backing to give the desired level of convexity. Leather for gentle convex and say about 3 inches of a phone book for greater slack. The unidirectional strokes gives better control. For up and down strokes, I wld secure the sandpaper. IN any event, long strokes wld inherently give some convexity as the angle tends to be raised when you push away. I prefer short strokes as it more intense when it is closer to you as the pressure wld be higher.

    4. I prefer the Micromesh sandpaper as recommended by Will Catcheside as it is cloth backed adn last longer. The equivalent of 1600 grit is part my stropping kit. Cut to same size as my piece of leather which will be used as a backing. Also a great great for removing light scratches and scuff marks.

    Its all a function of realizing how much steel we need to remove on the knife and use whatever material of teh same level of abrasiveness that can remove the said amount of steel required.

    have fun and a nice week-end where ever you are..

    d

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Cardiff, UK
    Posts
    801
    When thinning you're removing steel behind the edge, with the mouse pad you'd hit the edge at the same time so you'd be fighting yourself to some extent IMO

  7. #7
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Amstelveen, The Netherlands
    Posts
    2,043
    TB is right. You may thin with sandpaper, but make sure to have a harder underground to stay away from the edge. I use P120 on linen with a cedar cigar box to have the height I'm used to.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Jmadams13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    South Central PA
    Posts
    995
    I've used sandpaper on glass, same setup for stone fattening. When I did the mousepad method, it destroyed my edge, almost re profiling. Use a harder substrate as others recommend

    It is fun, so have a good time.
    "This is grain, which any fool can eat, but for which the Lord intended a more divine means of consumption.. Beer!" -Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Friar Tuck

  9. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    145
    Agreed -- sandpaper on a soft surface will destroy your edge unless you only use light trailing strokes. It will not be effective for thinning.

  10. #10
    Senior Member stevenStefano's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Norn Iron
    Posts
    1,391
    I have used the mousepad and sandpaper for sharpening and it worked out great but I think it would be a bit time-consuming for thinning

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts