And, no. As I clearly said above, I think he may only get one sharpening out of this knife, depending on how fatigued the steel is. And then he'll have to grind down the finger guard.
If the finger guard is not properly ground down, you cannot sharpen the heel (or even reach the heel), and if you try to sharpen the heel with an unground finger guard, you can chip your stone (not good), not reach the last inch of the knife (not good), or you'll have to change the angle at the heel to avoid the finger guard (not good). What you don't seem to understand is that the finger guard has to be at the bevel of the edge or curved up so it does not interfere with sharpening the edge at the heel. If the finger guard is above the bevel, i.e. curved up, it will not interfere with sharpening the heel. You can take full strokes back and forth through the heel.
If it is right at the heel, it has to be tapered to be the same angle of the bevel or a lower angle so you can sharpen the edge so the finger guard does not clip the stone. However, if the finger guard is tapered at a steeper angle, you cannot sharpen the heel without hitting the stone. You will clip the stone with the finger guard and then you'll get the concave edge, uneven bevel, etc.
Sharpen your Sab a few times to the point you start hitting the finger guard on your stone, you'll see exactly what I mean. Ultimately, there is no way getting around eventually having to grind down the finger guard on these types of knives. That's why, IMO, these are not ideal knives to practice sharpening on.
The best knives to sharpen on are cheap stainless or carbon knives without finger guards, that have relatively flat profiles and wide bevels. I would never recommend a knife with a finger guard as a practice knife. You'll always need to eventually grind the finger guard down.