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Thread: New Gyuto Advice Please.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdpx View Post
    I think you meant that you agree with Benuser on that?

    Finger guard or not, it seems like that knife is perhaps an ideal one to practise using stones with, no? [I am talking about learning the technique/motion here]
    Not exactly. He said sandpaper is an option as well. In my experience, this is either a grinder or grinding stone job unless you're willing to take a lot of time to do this. Like I explained before, one needs to properly taper the finger guard. DS Chief's pictures show how the finger guard has to be tapered.

    And, no. As I clearly said above, I think he may only get one sharpening out of this knife, depending on how fatigued the steel is. And then he'll have to grind down the finger guard.

    If the finger guard is not properly ground down, you cannot sharpen the heel (or even reach the heel), and if you try to sharpen the heel with an unground finger guard, you can chip your stone (not good), not reach the last inch of the knife (not good), or you'll have to change the angle at the heel to avoid the finger guard (not good). What you don't seem to understand is that the finger guard has to be at the bevel of the edge or curved up so it does not interfere with sharpening the edge at the heel. If the finger guard is above the bevel, i.e. curved up, it will not interfere with sharpening the heel. You can take full strokes back and forth through the heel.

    If it is right at the heel, it has to be tapered to be the same angle of the bevel or a lower angle so you can sharpen the edge so the finger guard does not clip the stone. However, if the finger guard is tapered at a steeper angle, you cannot sharpen the heel without hitting the stone. You will clip the stone with the finger guard and then you'll get the concave edge, uneven bevel, etc.

    Sharpen your Sab a few times to the point you start hitting the finger guard on your stone, you'll see exactly what I mean. Ultimately, there is no way getting around eventually having to grind down the finger guard on these types of knives. That's why, IMO, these are not ideal knives to practice sharpening on.

    The best knives to sharpen on are cheap stainless or carbon knives without finger guards, that have relatively flat profiles and wide bevels. I would never recommend a knife with a finger guard as a practice knife. You'll always need to eventually grind the finger guard down.
    Michael
    "Don't you know who he is?"

  2. #32
    Senior Member rdpx's Avatar
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    I am not sure that you understand what I was suggesting.

    As I think I said already, when I got my japanese knife I practised to get the technique a bit on my knackered old sabatier. I found it very useful as I would have been worried to go right at my shiny new knife with stones. After spending a bit of time on the Sabatier I felt confident that I was at least not going to ruin the new CarboNext.

    Because it worked for me personally, I would recommend this approach. TBH I would have been happy practising the technique on a butter knife.

    ~ Robert

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdpx View Post
    Finger guard or not, it seems like that knife is perhaps an ideal one to practise using stones with, no? [I am talking about learning the technique/motion here]

    ~ Robert
    Then next time, maybe you should choose your words more carefully because this is not an "ideal one" to practice with. You can practice sharpening with any damn, friggin' knife. But this knife with a finger guard is not "ideal."
    Michael
    "Don't you know who he is?"

  4. #34
    Senior Member rdpx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhlee View Post
    Then next time, maybe you should rephrase what you wrote because this is not an "ideal one" to practice with. You can practice sharpening with any damn, friggin' knife. But this knife with a finger guard is not "ideal."
    Nice language buddy!

    He has a knife he is tired of. Everyone seems to say it needs some serious work. Therefore it is IDEAL to practise with, as if he ruins it it needed serious work anyway. I think that is ideal because that is exactly what I did and it worked like a charm. You don't agree. There is no drama here, Michael.

  5. #35
    Senior Member Mrmnms's Avatar
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    Isn't this supposed to be a kind and gentle thread about large, western handled knife recommendations for this gentleman?

  6. #36
    Senior Member Mrmnms's Avatar
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    The forum vendors are VERY helpful and gracious . If you contact them regarding large handled western Gyutos , I am sure they will have great recommendations. Korin has at least 2 lines with good size handles, and Jon Broida of JKI is wise and generous with advice. I can't imagine him recommending anything that wasn't a great value. I just finished trying out one of Geshins for a week. Outstanding .

  7. #37
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    To the OP: don't touch the Sab before someone took care of the finger guard. You most certainly would damage the nice profile that has survived twenty years of steeling - quite remarkable, by the way.
    Robert is right to suggest a practice knife, but please, not this one in its present condition.
    As a practice knife I would suggest any small carbon steel knife, e.g. an Opinel 'au carbone', or anything by Robert Herder, Solingen, with
    edenwebshops.co.uk

  8. #38
    Senior Member rdpx's Avatar
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    I think the OP has been scared off.

  9. #39
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdpx View Post
    I think the OP has been scared off.
    Not so sure. The OP got a variety of points of view.

  10. #40
    Senior Member rdpx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    Not so sure. The OP got a variety of points of view.
    True enough, but most of them were about something that he had not asked!

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