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Thread: Suggested starting angle to sharpen new Tojiro DP Gyuto and Petty?

  1. #11
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    Tojiros are pretty chippy and not particularly fine-grained. You'd be best served sharpening at whatever angle you desire and then putting a micro on it at a high angle. I also wouldn't worry too much about the asymmetry. I've never noticed it, myself.

  2. #12
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    I thin mine almost to the point of burr formation at 5 degrees then put a 20 degree microbevel on each side to prevent chipping.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneH View Post
    I think I found the info you are referring to, "In our factory we edge the blade 60% to the right and 40% to the left, because it is quite difficult to edge fifty-fifty by standard grinding. However it is also possible to edge conversely upon request." http://tojiro.net/en/guide/part_edge.html

    Since it is the edge being discussed, I'm good with that. Easy enough to change, but if the factory has a problem getting and even 50/50 edge, I doubt I could do better. Why would a company say it's "quite difficult" so they proclaim 60/40? Sounds like just a way to justify an uneven bevel, so bias it on purpose one direction.
    It's quite difficult if you grind in two passes only, which is their standard procedure. They start grinding on the right side until a burr appears, switch side and do exactly the same on the left side, and then deburr. The first pass on the right side will take more time than the next one on the left side, so the edge will always be off-centered - to the left.
    You may compensate by starting on the left side and going on until you have a burr. This will somewhat recenter the edge. Some loss of material is being involved, though.

  4. #14
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeneH View Post
    This will be a straight V, not convexed.
    Why?
    By the way, you'll have to go far beyond the 1500 grit to get your VG-10 properly deburred.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    Why?
    By the way, you'll have to go far beyond the 1500 grit to get your VG-10 properly deburred.
    If you lighten up on the pressure and change the direction of your sweep, a 1500 will do okay. However, I do agree that 3k+ will make it easier.

  6. #16
    Senior Member GeneH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    Why? [V?]
    By the way, you'll have to go far beyond the 1500 grit to get your VG-10 properly deburred.
    I haven't managed freehanding, and don't see it in my future. (Ok, my tiny carving blades are freehand, but that's different) I just won't be sharpening enough to get and keep the muscle memory.

  7. #17
    Senior Member GeneH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tk59 View Post
    If you lighten up on the pressure and change the direction of your sweep, a 1500 will do okay. However, I do agree that 3k+ will make it easier.
    I expect to get something like the Shapton's at around 2k and 4k eventually, but one thing at a time. (the 1500 keeps loading up so will replace it) I have actually been doing well on soft steel going from the 1500 stone to a strop with (6 - 10 micron maybe?) alu oxide powder and green crayon.

    How about 1 micron boron carbide paste on leather?

  8. #18
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    What are you using to sharpen?

  9. #19
    Senior Member GeneH's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tk59 View Post
    What are you using to sharpen?
    I hesitate to come out...but EP. Training wheels to some folks. Slow, repeatable, not very cost effective...but repeatable.

  10. #20
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    Meh. That's not a big deal. What's worthy of ridicule is people who rationalize going around trying to cut things with dull knives. You can still change your pressure, direction of the scratches and the angle on an EP.

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