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Thread: Question on AEB-L (Artifex) in sharpening and edge retention [vs Forschner]

  1. #21
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    I have tried taking pictures, but either the lighting or camera is not good enough to see the edge

    @Pensacola Tiger - I will get a loupe to see more closely at what I'm sharpening.

    I was actually planning on the Beston/Bester/Suehiro Rika combination set found on certain websites. Not sure if I want to invest in a diamond plate at the moment because of the price, and am unsure of which brand.

    Also, I've been deburring on wine cork, with about 3 light strokes.

    @stevenStefano & @mhlee- The mentioned comment was not on CKTG forum. I may have been mistaken on the definition of reprofiling/profiling, or is there different interpretations on the word?

    Based on what I'm constantly reading is that AEB-L does seem to depend on the heat-treatment of the maker, and is probably better and more consistent with a craftsman that makes the AEB-L blade in small volumes.

  2. #22
    Profile means the shape of the knife and includes the shape of the edge. Geometry refers to the grind of the knife - from the edge to spine or vice versa. "Reprofiling" usually means changing the curvature of the edge.

    You may also want to try stropping on newspaper to see if that helps get rid of the burr.
    Michael
    "Don't you know who he is?"

  3. #23
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    What do you recommend, Franz?
    send it back, get another knife. the return policy should help with that.

    or if they won't take it back

    then i'd rather keep tweaking that knife til i get it right. so i'd thin it down. if i'm too scared to thin it down like a new user would be (not that i've proven my sharpening skills or thinning skills here), i'd send it out to someone more knowledgeable and more skilled than myself so it gets to work right. at least to someone who's willing to work on it.

    beyond that, i dunno.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by franzb69 View Post
    how about we help the guy first?
    +1 Yes, sometimes people come on with a request for advice, but then the discussion goes its own way and the question is never really answered.

  5. #25
    Senior Member Mrmnms's Avatar
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    How bout thinning the knife at 10 to 12 degrees starting with a coarse stone and follow Rick's (
    Pensacola Tiger) suggestions. Sounds like a plan to me.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Duckfat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenStefano View Post
    Was this on the CKTG forum? If so that's basically lies and it makes me pretty angry.
    I've seen this same spiel repeated ad-nauseum on Chef Talk.

    Dave
    Who you jivin' with that Cosmik Debris?

  7. #27
    I have a 210mm Artifex that I use as a beater/prep knife. I do like the profile and how it handles but the primary grind is pretty bad. The AEB-L steel is also rather hard at least on my knife. In order to get this knife to perform I had to go to a course DMT stone and thinned between the secondary and primary bevels. It cuts much better but it is a work in progress since I'm still working on the thinning to see how far it needs to go. The secondary bevel is currently sitting at ~15 degrees per side but it has taken a lot of thinning work to get it to perform even at 15 degrees. My 240mm Gesshin Ginga (White #2) kills it in cutting ability but I'm determined to make the Artifex perform so I can see how the AEB-L holds an edge.

  8. #28
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    Thanks for the replies. I got a Bester 1k and Suehiro Rika 5k. It is able to sharpen a bevel much better, and I am able to feel the burrs forming much easier now.

    I am still looking to get a coarse stone to thin the blade. I hope to find something on the B/S/T section. Or I may get a Naniwa Omura #150. Are there recommendations against using this stone for thinning? I understand that it dishes quickly, but I like the idea that it cuts fast and gives a good polish for it to jump right into a medium stone. If I were to use it, I would try to make use of the ends of the stone, and flatten on drywall screen periodically through the process.

  9. #29
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    When a lot of steel is to be removed as in your case, you may consider the use of coarse sandpaper (P120) to start with.

  10. #30
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GConcept999 View Post
    Thanks for the replies. I got a Bester 1k and Suehiro Rika 5k. It is able to sharpen a bevel much better, and I am able to feel the burrs forming much easier now.

    I am still looking to get a coarse stone to thin the blade. I hope to find something on the B/S/T section. Or I may get a Naniwa Omura #150. Are there recommendations against using this stone for thinning? I understand that it dishes quickly, but I like the idea that it cuts fast and gives a good polish for it to jump right into a medium stone. If I were to use it, I would try to make use of the ends of the stone, and flatten on drywall screen periodically through the process.

    All is not lost.... you have an opportunity to bring life to this knife..

    AS mentioned by TB London ( way aboveposys ) you may take that route. At times, I use course sand paper.. cheap and affordable enough.. IT takes time but you will get it there.. Whether it is stone or sand paper, they both will abrade..

    Personally, I wld say from the edge.. 1/2 to 3/4 inch thinning all the way. It can be further refined with smoother sand paper. I wld commence with say a 220Grit sand paper adn will possibly go down lower ( possible 150grit) it is too slow for me and at least refine the scratches with at least 600 grit adn proceed to 1000 grit shld you desire to beautify and polish the knife.

    ### place it real flat and use a backing on the sandpaper to prevent cutting yr fingers. A wooden block, cork or piece of rubber will be fine. Cut the sandpaper to teh desired width . But I rather do it bare with the thumb so that I can feel the metal.

    as for sharpening.. as above. Get 2 angles / planes to meet and if it is thin enough.. ( do what it takes to achieve this adn it will be sharp) it will cut beautifully..I wld not be too concerned abt the 15 degrees that you mentioned a few times. You may have to go lower (if it is that thick) and thus have a wider bevel on the edge.

    All is not lost and you wld most probably learn to thin behind the edge..

    Persevere and you will get there pretty soon.

    have fun and watch the fingers. Safety first....

    rgds
    d

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