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Question on AEB-L (Artifex) in sharpening and edge retention [vs Forschner] - Page 4
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Thread: Question on AEB-L (Artifex) in sharpening and edge retention [vs Forschner]

  1. #31
    Senior Member euphorbioid's Avatar
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    Dave recommended this stone (can be found here: http://www.bladegallery.com/shopexd.asp?id=80081 as well as other places) as a rapidly cutting coarse stone. I use it to thin double knives and it is particularly useful to flatten the bevel of traditional Japanese knives. You will also need some way to flatten any stone you use. Good luck.

  2. #32
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    What does backing on sandpaper mean? Does it mean a raised surface like a piece of 2x4 block of wood?

    How many sheets of sandpaper do you guys think the thinning project would take assuming I cut them to ~4.5in x 11in size? I don't want to have to spend more than what it would be for a coarse stone (a reason why I was eyeing the Naniwa Omura #150 was that it is fairly affordable for the size).
    Would thinning a knife like this kill a diamond plate like DMT XXC or Atoma 140?

    Does it have to be wet sanded, or is dry sanding okay, followed by wet sanding to get rid of the deep scratches? Briefly searching, it does not seem like 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper is readily available

    Hmm, yes, I've heard of the pink brick, so many choices.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    P120 sandpaper should easily be found in automotive hardware stores. I use a type of it with linen backing, it will last forever, but loses some abrasion power of course. Two standard sheets should do, I guess. Cost $1 per sheet. I use them on a wooden cigar box, to have a slightly softer backing and a setup similar to a sharpening stone, a little easier when you work around the heel. Wet or dry: when you don't use a lot of pressure it doesn't really matter, IMHO. Verify the temperature, though. Use edge trailing strokes only.

  4. #34
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    anyone else use pink brick for thinning? chosera 400 is amazing stone but it doesnt remove metal fast enough. naniwa 150 does remove quick, but it dishes so fast you have to flatten multiple times DURING thinning which is aggravating as all hell.

  5. #35
    I've got a pink brick 220 purchased from EE and I think it works great for thinning as long as you keep a light touch and allow the stone to do the work. If you use too much pressure it will load up and will have to refresh the surface.
    one man gathers what another man spills...

  6. #36
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    I use my Chosera 400 for thinning behind the edge with normally maintained blades, or cutting an edge, but with project knives in need of severe thinning I start with coarse sandpaper.

  7. #37
    Senior Member labor of love's Avatar
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    i really didnt like the naniwa omura 150....its a cheap stone and gets the job done, but it sucks lol. spend $5 more and get a gesshin 220 stone. it has to be a better stone....i havent used one yet, but if jon included it in the gesshin line up it must be top notch.

  8. #38
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    Seems like a Gesshin 220 is gonna cost me ~$19 more after tax and shipping, I don't feel like killing most of a quality stone until I got my sharpening techniques down, I'm still learning here. Also you get like double the real estate on the Omura. Slightly larger surface, and twice the height.

    I'm considering a Beston 500 or a Gesshin 400.

    How come you don't like the Omura?

  9. #39
    Senior Member labor of love's Avatar
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    omura clogs up pretty easily with swarf...and the only reason i would use a stone that low would be for thinning...so its counterproductive...it works for some people but i used my beston instead...maybe a low grit king would be a better option?

  10. #40
    I couldn't be happier with my Gesshin 400.
    Twitter: @PeterDaEater

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