You can definitely use an Atoma 140 (and I assume a DMT XXC although I've never used a DMT; I have the Atoma 140) to thin a knife. I have. Will it reduce the life of the Atoma? Of course. But how much depends on how much you use it for thinning. Getting a DMT would also allow you to use it as a flattener so you're kind of killing two birds with one stone (no pun intended).
But, in my experience, it does take significant effort and time to remove scratches (if you care about this kind of stuff) if you use a very coarse stone. I just used my Gesshin 400 yesterday, followed by my Gesshin 2000 on a Sakai Takayuki petty and a Masamoto KS and with about 10 minutes of work on each, I was able to get rid of most of the scratches of the 400 with the 2000 (to my non-contact lenses eyes). However, using the 250, in my experience, seems to require a lower grit stone before going up to a higher grit stone.
So, since you have the Beston 1000, I think a DMT XX or possibly even an X could be a good solution. (From what I can tell from the DMT website, the X is equivalent to 220 grit.) Again, I've never used these plates; I wouldn't hesitate to recommend an Atoma, but I think it's a lot more than you want to pay.
You'll probably want to ask around to see how the X is as a flattener and coarse stone. But at about $50, it could be a good alternative.
"Don't you know who he is?"
I did a major thinning on a Artiflex Tall 240mm.Used a 140 Atoma & elbow grease.It is 50mm tall at the heel,I thinned halfway up the blade.It cuts way better with radical surgery.I have been using it alot since thinning,it holds a good edge,better than alot of stainless I have used.It is also easy to sharpen with the thin convex edge on it now.Peters does the HT for these blades.They are a respected industrial Heat Treatment Co.For Cultery they use a 3 step process with Cryo- freezing.
I even cut frozen fruit for my fruit smoothies wt. it.No chipping,good steel.The problem with the Artiflex is the factory Taper sucks so it is a project knife,but if you do not mind a major reprofile it deff. pays off.
I too am having great results on my AEB-L Artifex with some serious work using my DMT course stone. I've probably spend more than an hour working on the thinning and now it is a completely different knife. The steel is holding up great also after two weeks of daily cutting and still cuts very cleanly. A touch on the arm and hair just jumps off. Of course the real test is with food but I'm surprised at the edge holding so far.
I was surprized also,been cutting frozen fruit wt it every morning,I cook for others every night.It is not like cutting for hours at a job.Been using it almost a month & have not resharpened it yet.
Decided to rehandle it since I like the knife so much.Redesign to make handle little longer.Had to redrill one hole for Corby & center hole for Mosiac.Used a new solid carbide bit that usually goes right thru hardened steel.The AEB-L hardened tang was not an easy drill.With the edge holding & hardness of steel I feel the Heat Treatment on this blade is excellent.
Using African Blackwood wt nickle silver corby rivits & nickle silver mosiac.I can easy see why Custom makers like this steel.
I agree with MHLee about the deep scratches being difficult to remove, but so it goes.. automotive refinishing adhesive-backed 120 is nice to work with if you put it on a flat tile or glass or tablesaw... and you'll probably use 4 sheets or more (max hopefully 6?). THEN if you have access to a 1k-ish diamond, it could be good for removing scratches.. or on a regular 1k it might take 20 hard minutes.. perhaps this order would be best economically speaking.. every time I've put a wide bevel of steel to a diamond plate it has really taxed heavily. For very narrow bevels or flattening other stones I use my Atoma. I've even found chamferring edges of stones with the diamond plate to be detrimental, and use a (real) brick/other stones
Gesshin 400 and diamond plates are great, but not cheap and you're going to put a lot of wear on them trying to grind all that steel down.
+1 For the recommendation to use coarse auto sandpaper or emery cloth to start with.
If you want to add convexing, you can to it by laying somthing like foam or rubber sheeting or a firm mouse pad under the sandpaper. You can find plenty of videos of guys doing that with hunting or bushcraft knives on youtube.
Another thing to consider here is that the HT can often be screwed up by the ape doing the finish grinding and sharpening if they're too chimp-aggressive and heat the steel up too much with friction. People often find that the steel's performance drastically improves once they remove some layers of this damaged metal at and behind the edge. So as long as you don't mind a "project" removing all the metal will improve the performance of your knife both in geometry and it edge taking and holding.
Take it slow and pay attention to what you're doing / the effect it has on cutting and you will come out of this project with a better understanding of what makes a good kitchen knife than the people that made and sold you this one.
"I gotta tell ya, this is pretty terrific. Ha hahaha, YEAH!" - Moe (w/ 2 knives). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVt4U...layer_embedded