WIP - Making a Saya

[Marko Tsourkan]

I didn't document every step, but you should get an idea about the process.

Excess TruOil removed - 24hrs drying


Generously Coated in TruOil


Hand Sanded to 320 grit


Ground to 120grit - Blending Lines


Rough Ground - Bevels and Chamfers and Giving Saya Shape


Rough Ground - Bevels and Chamfers


Glued Up and profiled


Carved and Fitted



Carved and Fitted



Carved and Fitted



Carved and Fitted



Carved and Fitted

[Don Nguyen]

Marko, what chisels are you using, do you have any pictures of them? I remember you saying that flex is crucial in saya nomi, so I'm curious what you're working with.

I think your pictures/documentation is backwards too. Looks awesome though.

[Marko Tsourkan]

I use Japan Woodworker saya chisels in 3/8 and 3/4". I outline a profile, then make a cut on a profile, then carve to that cut. 3/8 chisel is good at carve to the profile, while the 3/4 is good at removing bulk of material.

M

[Burl Source]

Nice work Marko.
Thank you for posting the photos.

[apicius9]

Thanks Marko. I was always wondering: with a thicker knife, would you carve both pieces or still only one?

Stefan

[Marko Tsourkan]

Never both, as when you clamp, there will be a slight movement on the halves, causing them misallign. For a thicker knife, you start with a thicker board and leave more material on a side where cavity is carved. However, for knives like Shigefusa, I carve the cavity on both sides to accommodate rapidly thickening spine at the handle, but just up to 2.5" on the side opposite to where cavity is carved.