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Thread: Wa handle Removal

  1. #11
    i've done something like that before for some things, but it will also loosen the connection between the ferrule and the rest of the handle FWIW.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by SpikeC View Post
    I had a handle that was not quite straight so I heated it with boiling water until the epoxy softened and it came right off after I hammered on the end of the chisel that I paced on the side of the handle.


  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JBroida View Post
    but it will also loosen the connection between the ferrule and the rest of the handle FWIW.
    My thoughts exactly.

    Could you heat the tang of the blade somehow? Hot enough to loosen the epoxy, but not hot enough to blow the temper.

  4. #14

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    Guys I've boiled Konosuke HD original magnolia/water buffalo handle and I can easily use it again. It was very hard to remove it but i did few boliing sessions.

  5. #15
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    wonder if using a vac bag for sous vide and just manually removing the air and sealing it with a manual ealer instead of a chamber bag would work? Then i was thinking since epoxy should loosen at 140-145 maybe i can use one of my immersion circulators at the restaurant to get the inside heated through to loosen the epoxy. Would have to wait for construction to finish in a few months on my new restaurant before i can try that though. All my equipment is boxed and locked up in storage. Has anyone tried using a blow dryer to heat the handle? Figured if water could damge the handle maybe hot air wont.

  6. #16
    daveb's Avatar
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    I know nothing about handle construction and little about epoxy. That said a "heat gun" of the type electricians use with shrink wrap will give you dry, directed air at the temps that you are looking for. Think hair dryer on steroids. In the states they can be had for less than 50 bucks.

    Regards,

    Dave
    Dave
    Older and wider.

  7. #17
    Senior Member Seth's Avatar
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    Would a torch work...careful not to scorch the wood or overheat? Would the steel conduct to heat to the epoxy???? I have a serious machi issue.
    Everywhere you go, there you are.

  8. #18

  9. #19
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    So if i was willing to lose the handle? how would i remove it? i have another with just ho wood that i wanted to switch out but im pretty sure its epoxied or at least filled with epoxy.

  10. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by ms4awd View Post
    So if i was willing to lose the handle? how would i remove it? i have another with just ho wood that i wanted to switch out but im pretty sure its epoxied or at least filled with epoxy.
    It seems like removing the handle with water or just heat in the ways suggested above would be pretty tough without damaging the handle and potentially damaging the blade. Additionally, many folks that use epoxy do a sort of heat treating to it, where after the handle is set, it is heated gently. Once the epoxy has softened slightly from heat the first time, it doesn't do it to the same degree again. This said, assuming the epoxy wasn't sent through a heat cycle, I would recommend trying the following:

    Set a 75ish watt light bulb in a smallish cabinet with the knife. Close the door. Wait 1-2 hours. This will gently heat the interior of the cabinet, not damage the handle materials and might slightly soften the epoxy. Then put the blade in a padded vise and gently tap the rear of the handle (pushing it on further) ... note that I say "gently". Once it has pushed on slightly further, it will be loose enough to pull off. Sometimes the handle will crack, but it is the best way I've come up with.

    For handles that won't come off, I use an old chef's knife and cut the handle off starting at the tang and slicing toward the rear of the handle.

    -daniel

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