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Thread: Stone Correcting

  1. #1
    Senior Member smilesenpai's Avatar
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    Question Stone Correcting

    I have a Shun 1k/6k whet stone.
    What is the recommended method to correcting the stone?
    For the 1k face I would use something rougher than the 6k side, right?
    I'm a student so don't have the budget for nice equipment and been using sand sandpaper on a flat surface so far.
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    a cheap diamond plate would suffice so long as the diamond plate you buy is dead flat. a 1k stone would be fine with a 140 or 325 grit stone.

    the 6k would be ok with maybe a 1k diamond plate.

  3. #3
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    There is nothing at all wrong with the method you are using if you are getting results. Save your money for more knives and stones.

    I've used cinder blocks, drywall, and the pavement in a pinch, and sandpaper on something flat is just fine.

  4. #4
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    let me correct myself, i've tried using sandpaper on a flat surface, the pavement, even actual walls, lol. and none have done a better job than a diamond plate. so i've stuck to that.

    =D

  5. #5
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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  6. #6

    Zwiefel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benuser View Post
    Stone fixers are inexpensive (comparatively) and work fine...but they change shape with your stones, just more slowly. So keep in mind that your stone correcter will eventually need to be corrected itself. Also, it will become less coarse over time and that will slow it down.

    None of these are reasons to not get one...I've been pleased with one I have...the exact one that was linked, actually (the brown one).

    Remember: You're a unique individual...just like everybody else.

  7. #7
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    Wow those stone fixers are way way cheaper than my DMT dia-flat.

  8. #8
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    BTW, unless i'm sharpening a single bevel knife (like usuba, deba, yanagi) or a blade with a large primary bevel and shinogi line on a double bevel, I personally don't think ultra-micron super-duper flatness is that important.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Benuser's Avatar
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    +1
    Use high spots for thinning.

  10. #10
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    I wld assess it the amount of stone removal required and where.

    Is it a hard or soft water stone? How dished is it. Generally the perimeters of the stone and the two ends wld be raised.

    I prefer not to use too rough a "flattening stone" as it does leave deep striations. I buy cheap stones that is at least teh same size or three quarters in terms of length the size of the sharpening stone. IF not much removal required which shld be the case if you do it regularly, then a stone a few notches down in terms of grit is my preference.

    I have a very worn out small diamond plate which is used as a nagura when I desire to give the edge a mud bath polishing after it is flattened

    After the leveling, the mud is collected in a small container to be used for polishing and cleaning. Yes I collect a concoction of 1000 to 5000 mix adn also just 10,000 grit mud

    The stones above 1,000 grit are usually flattened and also to create slurry with my 1,000 grit stone as I do believe that grit contamination is good for leaving a more toothy edge. Not for polishing though.

    just my views..

    hv a nice week -end.
    D

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