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Thread: WIP - Making a Saya

  1. #1

    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    WIP - Making a Saya

    I didn't document every step, but you should get an idea about the process.

    Excess TruOil removed - 24hrs drying
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    Generously Coated in TruOil
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    Hand Sanded to 320 grit
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    Ground to 120grit - Blending Lines
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    Rough Ground - Bevels and Chamfers and Giving Saya Shape
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    Rough Ground - Bevels and Chamfers
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    Glued Up and profiled
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    Carved and Fitted
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    Carved and Fitted
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    Carved and Fitted
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    Carved and Fitted
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    Carved and Fitted
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  2. #2

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    Marko, what chisels are you using, do you have any pictures of them? I remember you saying that flex is crucial in saya nomi, so I'm curious what you're working with.

    I think your pictures/documentation is backwards too. Looks awesome though.

    "Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away." -Antoine de Saint-Exupery

  3. #3

    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    I use Japan Woodworker saya chisels in 3/8 and 3/4". I outline a profile, then make a cut on a profile, then carve to that cut. 3/8 chisel is good at carve to the profile, while the 3/4 is good at removing bulk of material.

    M


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  4. #4
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    Nice work Marko.
    Thank you for posting the photos.

  5. #5
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
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    Thanks Marko. I was always wondering: with a thicker knife, would you carve both pieces or still only one?

    Stefan

  6. #6

    Marko Tsourkan's Avatar
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    Never both, as when you clamp, there will be a slight movement on the halves, causing them misallign. For a thicker knife, you start with a thicker board and leave more material on a side where cavity is carved. However, for knives like Shigefusa, I carve the cavity on both sides to accommodate rapidly thickening spine at the handle, but just up to 2.5" on the side opposite to where cavity is carved.



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