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Thread: Shig clone in mono stainless like AEB-L

  1. #51
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    holy ****!

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by RRLOVER View Post
    How could you not want a stainless shigi!!!...... I know I was tired of using my stinky ass... rusting...food coloring...turd...hmm....sorry no love for the shigi cladding...
    mine was never too reactive, probably the minority though

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    mine was never too reactive, probably the minority though
    Mine is plenty reactive.

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by maxim View Post
    ...
    Mono steel knives like Masamoto KS or others is considered much easier to make with much more Profit, they do not need any forging or special heat tread to make them stay straight.
    Unlike Honyakis witch is forged and hardened with different hardening is way more expensive to make then San Mai !
    Couple of points to address:

    Honyaki and monosteel blades are essentially the same with the exception that one is forged to shape and requires annealing before heat treating and the other is cut from a sheet of steel and requires profilign. After a forged blank is annealed, they are heat treated the same - quenched in water or oil. In US most makers quench carbon steels in medium to fast oil to to minimize warpage, but many still quench in water for more active hamon (W2 and 1095, etc). Rarely blades are coming out of a quenching medium perfectly straight, almost always some straightening required during the process of making a knife.

    Hamon on nonyaki is not for decoration but for make the steel to absorb shock better and to make it easier to straighten the edge. Removing scratches (as you know yourself) from hardened monosteel is no fun, and that is where a whole lot of work is. Monosteel blades hardened to 62-63RC, with steels that have some chromium, vanadium and other alloys that are harder than iron, are often much more difficult to finish than a typical honyaki at 64RC or so, let alone san mai with a soft cladding. I can refinish san mai in 30 minutes, while a monosteel blade can take me 2-3 hours or more.

    To straighten the edge on a san mai, all you need to do is to bent the spine in the spot where you see warpage on the edge. If you know of an easy way of straightening monosteel blade, I would like to know it, as I haven't found one (easy) yet.

    Steels like 52100 is a deep hardening steel because of presence of chromium, so hamon method straightening the edge would not work.
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  5. #55

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    If you use 2 or 3 hrs to polish the blade then something is wrong with your technique.
    Most of the polishing as I said is done before heat tread
    And yeah exactly stock removal mono steel blades take much less time to make so more profit

  6. #56
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    To get uniform cooling on the blade, which in turn minimizes distortion (cooling is quite a violent process), the blanks are left at full thickness, including honyaki, which it typically forged thicker.

    When I polish a blade, I don't just cover scratches, but completely remove preceding scratches before moving up a grit, that is why it takes me the long it takes.

    I have nothing more to add to this argument.

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  7. #57

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    Still 2 or 3 hrs or more sounds like a lot really a lot. I usually polish both Claded knives and Mono Steel knives. I did try to polish both 1095 and 52100 mono steel and time is about the same as Kasumi knives
    I will agree that Mono Steel knives Take much more time to Thin, but in makers case it is done on a grinder not on stones !
    But polishing or refinishing it Takes about same time for me, and i do not cover up scratches

  8. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    mine was never too reactive, probably the minority though
    I have owned/used/sold five different shigis.....all were plenty reactive......why would I want to use a knife that turns my food colors???....just because the cool kids are doing it???

  9. #59

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    Worked in pro kitchen some years with Shig never had that problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by RRLOVER View Post
    I have owned/used/sold five different shigis.....all were plenty reactive......why would I want to use a knife that turns my food colors???....just because the cool kids are doing it???
    But yeah if you are not used to work with Carbon knives i get the idea

  10. #60

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    Quote Originally Posted by maxim View Post
    Worked in pro kitchen some years with Shig never had that problem.

    But yeah if you are not used to work with Carbon knives i get the idea

    ??????? What does a "Carbon" knife have to do with the reactive cladding used by shigi??.....I do own/owned a "few" carbon knives...my main knife is O1/L6 knife I made from Delberts dammy.

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