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Thread: Help a noob polish his Aritsigu A-Type Gyuto.

  1. #1
    Senior Member kungpao's Avatar
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    Help a noob polish his Aritsugu A-Type Gyuto.

    I'm hoping to get some advice on how to polish up my Aritsugu A-Type 240mm gyuto. This will be my first time doing so, and the knife is special to me so I'm a bit nervous about messing it up. I understand the basics of progression from course to fine grit wet/dry sandpaper, but am curious about a few things not mentioned in tutorials.

    The markings on this blade look like they will rub right off with a sink sponge if I wanted them to. I'm looking to hopefully keep them intact during polishing. How do I go about doing this without leaving an area of the knife around the logo unpolished? I'm also wondering how long of a time to spend polishing with each grit level. Does anyone know from experience or educated guess what the Aritsugu proprietary semi stainless carbon polishes like? Do you think it would be possible to get a mirror-ish finish? Thanks again, this hobby and forum are becoming quite exciting for me!

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    Senior Member NO ChoP!'s Avatar
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    When using sand paper, you start at the lowest grit necessary to remove the heaviest scratches. You do not progress to a higher grit until you have removed all scratches from the previous grit. It's that simple, just a lot of elbow grease. If your knife is basically scratch free, and you would like to bring the factory finish to a mirror polish you could skip to 400, 600 or even 800, dependent on the factory scratch pattern.

    I think most switch from high grit wet paper to buffing wheels/pads and compounds to achieve true mirror.

    Salty has a vid out there where he mirror polishes a gyuto, I think using car polish.
    The difference between try and triumph is a little "umph"! NO EXCUSES!!!!!!!
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  3. #3
    I don't see why you would not be able to go as high as true mirror if you want. After 800 grit you start to get mirror-ish. As for the Logo part I have no idea.

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    Senior Member kungpao's Avatar
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    Well I saw a couple of people polish thiers about half way up the front side of the knife, around where the shinogi line would be on a single bevel. I'm going to give it a try and post pictures later this evening. Wish me luck!

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    Quote Originally Posted by kungpao View Post
    Well I saw a couple of people polish thiers about half way up the front side of the knife, around where the shinogi line would be on a single bevel. I'm going to give it a try and post pictures later this evening. Wish me luck!
    That "polish" is a result of some very major thinning of the right-hand side of the blade and subsequent scratch removal. A few years ago, when the Aritsugu was the "flavor of the month", this thinning was in vogue. It resulted in a very asymmetrical geometry and was favored by more than a few users for its performance when thinned like that.

    Rick
    “I hear and I forget. I see and I remember. I do and I understand.”

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    Senior Member kungpao's Avatar
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    Now that you mention it I recall the thread that I saw them in being rather old. I'm not yet at the level where I feel confident enough to thin the knife out to such a degree, but I figure I'll give it a go with the wet/ dry paper. Thanks for the heads up!

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    I polished mine just half way up on stones, as described by PT. It's still one of my absolute best performers.

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    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kungpao View Post
    Now that you mention it I recall the thread that I saw them in being rather old. I'm not yet at the level where I feel confident enough to thin the knife out to such a degree, but I figure I'll give it a go with the wet/ dry paper. Thanks for the heads up!
    I have the same concerns too...
    a) Better to err with a higher grit. only damage will be more elbow grease adn drop mto lower grit when necessary.

    b) Once it is all smooth and you see fine lines.. go easy on teh pressure and ensure that you are using a high grit.

    c) steel polish too is an abrasive.. but a gentle one.

    d)I have chosen teh buffer wheel route. Not too expensive for a hobby if you are into polishing things.. Steel ( knives_) small wood items, Handles included. @@ Safety first always!!! fingers may not be replaceable!

    have fun...
    d

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    Senior Member Seb's Avatar
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    I have a 210mm A-Type and I only reset the bevel angle with only a Cholera 400, probably not the best choice since it is slow. It was really really hard work! I don't even want to think about thinning the whole side! Ow!

    OP, you probably saw pics of KCMA's 270mm.

  10. #10
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kungpao View Post
    Well I saw a couple of people polish thiers about half way up the front side of the knife, around where the shinogi line would be on a single bevel. I'm going to give it a try and post pictures later this evening. Wish me luck!

    I do it this way...

    Starting with 220grit 3M sandpaper cut to about width of thumb.. adn abrade in the width shape of your desired outcome. You will see the old vertical lines slowing being replaced with teh horizontal lines ( parallel to the edge). IF you like, do teh grit progression if you like finer lines till it disappears.. Then Autosol and polish till you get a clear reflection.

    IF you lack patience .. then do it over the next few days adn rub and rub . Eventually you will get there pretty fast SAFETY : BEst to have a pad behind the sandpaper adn place the knife absolute flat on a table top.

    I prefer this way as once metal is removed, you cant put it back. and once it is smooth.. I do not know how thick the cladding is and would only use smooth sandpaper thereafter.

    have fun

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