do you prefer aogami #1/#2 to aogami super in a pro kitchen?

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berko

berko

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im wondering whether it would be better to go with a simple blue steel sujihiki or with one in aogami super. i think there are some reasons to prefer the former, ease of sharpening and the ability to rod beeing some of them.
what do you think? can you recommend either?
 
that is one unsatisfying answer. what if its the same smith, assuming good heat treatment to 61 on blue and 64 on blue super.
 
Personally if we are talking same smith I prefer..... It depends on the knife. For a sujihiki I would go with white over any blue (not trying to confuse things or derail the thread). I just don't see the benefit for the extra cost of blue in that scenario. In a pro environment between blue steels I would likely go with blue 2 due to the extra toughness. I can't see you getting that much more performance with AS for the extra $$$.
 
I would suppose that you'd get better retention with the AS but it'd take you more time to sharpen in a rush. And then there's the smith-factor, as someone said. Also, not sure about this, but would you also want a bit of flex with a suji? If so, I'm not sure which steel would be better.
 
Edge retention is dependent on usage as much as steel characteristics. All things being equal, you'd expect AS to be more wear resistant but less stable than the other Hitachi steels we see here and at that hardness, it would be more brittle and prone to chipping. There's a reason why most knives are hardened to 61 ish. That's where someone with reasonable skill will get the most out of an edge. Harder and more alloy is likely going to get you less edge retention due to damage taken during wobbles, twists, and bumps over the course of use. If you want flexibility, don't use a clad blade.
 
I don't particularly care much what steel the knife is made of, as long as it's a good one that's been treated well. The steel at the edge is much less important than the grind/ geometry of the knife and the heat treat of the steel can make the same steel, done by two different people perform completely differently. That being said, I prefer blue 1 or 2, to as as it's easier to quickly touch up on a finishing stone when needed making the full sharpening progression a once in a month or two occurrence depending on use.
 
I find my aogami super takeda suji to be very easy to sharpen and it has an incredibly sharp edge. It surpasses any I've ever seen or used. My suji can clean shave an arm, which is the only body part I've tested, after doing a very busy service with high use and portioning fish. I think it's one of the best steels money can buy. I cannot say anything for the blue 1 or 2 as I have never tried a suji that had either of these steels. I just think the hype that says that aogami super is hard to maintain is bogus, at least in the blacksmith takedas knives.
 
ive used 4 different knives with augami super. i loved the steel each time it was just everything else about those particular knives i found to be lacking somewhat. then again, im super picky about knives though, lol. Also, FWIW AS may be a tad more time consuming on the stones than other hitachi carbons but its still way quicker to sharpen than stainless. and unless you have reactivity problems on the edge, it should hold up pretty well, better than any other carbon steel that im aware of.
 
i buy white, because it's cheap, gets sharp as hell and is incredibly easy to touch up, which will it will need often, very often
 
understand the steel characteristics is also important when you choose a knife!!
blue#2 increase amount of carbon(C) become Blue#1(hardness increase but toughness decrease)
Blue#1 increase amount of carbon(C), Chromium(Cr) & Tungsten(W) become blue super(increasing hardness & edge retention, decreasing sharpenability)
depend on your preference in pro kitchen; as home cook, I prefer/love blue super more than blue#2(never used blue#1)
*blue super steel about 1.8x more cost than blue#1 steel in japan....
 
Just about every poster has already mentioned it, but it all depends on the maker.

Takeda does a really impressive job with blue super, but I havn't use any other knives, so I dont know if Takeda is that much better than anyone else.

Ive seen a huge variance in the blue 1 and 2 knives that I've used. Blue 2 is supposed to be tougher than 1, but I had a knife out of it that had pieces just fall out of the edge every time I looked at it sideways. I also have a blue #2 deba that has pretty fantastic edge retention and great edge retention as well. I've had a blue #1 Zakurai the felt harder than my Takeda, but would microchip if used carelessly. My newest knife is one of the new Gesshin "badass" models in blue #1 and the HT is incredible hard, crazy sharp, but astonishing forgiving and (thankfully) tough and resilient enough to resist damage when I promptly buried the paper-thin tip in my cutting board during the first run.

Buy based on knife and maker, not steel.
 
Any Mono steel carbon,if you don't mind spending a little extra go for the AS.I agree wt. Brad AS steel is not hard to sharpen:)
 
What I mean is unclad,no reason in particular,just my preferance,thin carbons for most production work.
 
I have found ao1 and ao2 more rewarding than any other steel, as one of the lads above ir really depends of the smith, I got a mazaki in white2 and is absolutely ****, but then I got a gorobei for a bit less of the price and better finish and is gorgeous….Aogami super… I have only bad experiences…. Does not comeback with a honing rod, takes fcking forever to sharp if you are not acknowledged as! And is a boring steel (for me….without offending feelings of the AS fans here)

Shirogami realm is a tricky one! Get a reputable smith and read a loooooot, some of them are very good, and then you got a very bad ones such as w2 tanaka \\ w2 mazaki // w1 tsunehisa…etc

Kyohei shindo b2?? Massive value for money and if you polish up and tune up geometry…is super good, but again…need to grind it
 
in my mind go with AS. Its a Suji, should be slicing therefore I want wear resistance. I am not chopping on a board so not really worried about chipping. I dont understand when people say sharpening AS is hard. Maybe an extra minute over blue 1 or 2, 2 or 3 minutes over white. If you are struggling to sharpen AS then your knife is too thick at the edge.
 
Matt Jacobs said:
in my mind go with AS. Its a Suji, should be slicing therefore I want wear resistance. I am not chopping on a board so not really worried about chipping. I dont understand when people say sharpening AS is hard. Maybe an extra minute over blue 1 or 2, 2 or 3 minutes over white. If you are struggling to sharpen AS then your knife is too thick at the edge.
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Yeah could be, but AS it does not have the same “cutting feel” and don’t get me wrong…it gets sharp and all of that…but is not as nice as Ao1 or 2 mate…and that is not about geometry or thickness…so I guess everyone has a different “taste” maybe AS is good for some and I do not want to say “AS is bulls**t” due my bad experience with it. Just don’t like it
 
Matt Jacobs said:
in my mind go with AS. Its a Suji, should be slicing therefore I want wear resistance. I am not chopping on a board so not really worried about chipping. I dont understand when people say sharpening AS is hard. Maybe an extra minute over blue 1 or 2, 2 or 3 minutes over white. If you are struggling to sharpen AS then your knife is too thick at the edge.
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This has me really rethinking things. Like, I've been so White #2 brainrot that I dont really consider other steels when buying, but the gesshin suji in white has been a bit a bit of a struggle. So much heavily brined protien, all day everyday, I'm lucky to get 2 days off that edge. And thats with minimal board contact.

Time to check out some new steels again.
 
Vertigo said:
This has me really rethinking things. Like, I've been so White #2 brainrot that I dont really consider other steels when buying, but the gesshin suji in white has been a bit a bit of a struggle. So much heavily brined protien, all day everyday, I'm lucky to get 2 days off that edge. And thats with minimal board contact.

Time to check out some new steels again.
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With a heavy brined protein, I'd definitely look at semi-stainless and stainless. Especially SKD/Chromax, SLD, ZDP-189, R2/SG2 and HAP40 for Japanese made. A2, D2 (especially CPM-D2), Magnacut, Z-wear/Cru-wear/3v, 4v, 10v, etc. for Western makers.
 
Vertigo said:
This has me really rethinking things. Like, I've been so White #2 brainrot that I dont really consider other steels when buying, but the gesshin suji in white has been a bit a bit of a struggle. So much heavily brined protien, all day everyday, I'm lucky to get 2 days off that edge. And thats with minimal board contact.

Time to check out some new steels again.
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O1, I've used my gyuto for slicing brined meats tons of times, see if msicard will make u a suji in it. I have a white1 honyaki suji I never use cause most slicing I do wrecks havoc on the edge lol
 
M1k3 said:
With a heavy brined protein, I'd definitely look at semi-stainless and stainless. Especially SKD/Chromax, SLD, ZDP-189, R2/SG2 and HAP40 for Japanese made. A2, D2 (especially CPM-D2), Magnacut, Z-wear/Cru-wear/3v, 4v, 10v, etc. for Western makers.
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And AEB-L and derivatives you dolt!
 
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