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Marko Tsourkan

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Feb 28, 2011
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I am a one-person operator of Marko Designs, that started as a kitchen knife-related woodworking hobby and grew into a tiny side-business (that I still treat as a hobby, but I have an overhead now).

I love kitchen knives, knife accessories, and I also have a strong preferences for what I like and what I don't, so that is probably the main reason why I make things. :)

I have benefited greatly being a part of this community and I would like to give back and help others along the way.

Marko
 
Hey Marko. I'm glad you have a new place you can display your work.
 
Hi, Marko- I have a question for you regarding handle making. I'm making a honesuki with a wa handle out of stabilized maple burl and ebony. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole into the end of the maple, and turned a 1/2 inch tenon onto the ebony. My plan is to epoxy the ebony to the maple. Have you any experience with this sort of joint? I have some System 3 T88 gap filling epoxy to use.
 
Hi, Marko- I have a question for you regarding handle making. I'm making a honesuki with a wa handle out of stabilized maple burl and ebony. I drilled a 1/2 inch hole into the end of the maple, and turned a 1/2 inch tenon onto the ebony. My plan is to epoxy the ebony to the maple. Have you any experience with this sort of joint? I have some System 3 T88 gap filling epoxy to use.


I like mortise and tenon joints in my work, and my handles feature them on the ferrule. Since there is no stress on the joint, any epoxy would do.

When I make a handle with a horn end cap (and most often a spacer), I always use a tenon-like construction.

M
 
Thanks! Now I need to figure out how to make an accurate hole for the tang of the blade!
 
Thanks! Now I need to figure out how to make an accurate hole for the tang of the blade!

Not easy, that is why Japanese use soft wood for handles, so burning in tang hole would not be difficult. For ebony often a soft wood dowel is inserted for burning in.
 
I'm thinking of a jig with my drill press. The tang is 3/32 inch thick, I will regrind the tip of a twist drill so that it will cut straight into the wood. The ebony is the bolsterish end, so it will get drilled first, then the bottom of hole will be in the maple where some burning in can do the final bit. Maybe. If it works.
If this doesn't work I might try using the saya technique of splitting the blank and cutting the recess and re-gluing.
 
You will find that shaping a narrow tang hole with a drill press is very difficult.
I think your last idea is a much better approach. There are several ways to do it.
 
Hey Rio,
same here. I should invite you to my shop once I clear the clatter and make it more hospitable.

M
 
cool. let me know :). i guess murphy got less attention now since you busy at your shop.
 
cool. let me know :). i guess murphy got less attention now since you busy at your shop.

He gets at least 2 hours of my undivided attention per day. I get some exercise and some thinking done, and he gets his walk. We both benefit.
 
I have been remiss in not welcoming you Marko!
 
Welcome Marko, that saya you did for my Shig is still getting more notice than the knife itself... I've got to get some more stuff from you soon...
 
Great to see you here Marko looking forward to more pics of your work.
 

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