Quantcast
Why is this happening - sharpening ? - Page 2
+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 33

Thread: Why is this happening - sharpening ?

  1. #11
    Senior Member chinacats's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    2,302
    Quote Originally Posted by JBroida View Post
    i get the sense people seem to think that microbevels are a fix-it-all solution. I just want to say they are not. They arent really burr removal tools (though they do help remove burrs), and they arent always the best idea for every knife. They are a very good idea on some knives and in some situations.
    Jon, could you please elaborate on "some knives and in some situations." Thin gyuto that gets banged on a board quite a bit I would think may apply?
    one man gathers what another man spills...

  2. #12
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    74
    Ok so I'm not any kind of expert, but to me, the most likely answer is those chips were there before the sharpening. I figure the fact that the OP only started with a 2k stone is a huge factor here.

    Did you inspect that edge with the microscope prior to sharpening and after the 2k stone? My guess is that that the chips were there prior to sharpening, and the 2k raised a nice perceptible burr along the whole edge, but without removing the microchips that were there first. It takes me forever to get rid of any kind of chips with my Bester 1k and it raises a burr LONG before any chips are gone.

    Its always a good idea to inspect the edge prior to sharpening with some kind of loupe, and then if there are any chips to be removed, make sure they're gone before progressing to finer grits.

  3. #13
    Senior Member Matus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    691
    Well, I am not all too experienced, but if - as you said - this is a minor issue that you will likely not really notice in actual use, just use the knife as normally and when the next sharpening session will be due check the blade with your microscope before and after sharpening - maybe you will find similar micro chipping (if that's what this is) in more than just one place.

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    33
    Jbroida,

    What would you recommend on a Suisin Inox Honyaki Wa-Gyuto 240mm?? I have that knife due in the mail any day now and would greatly appreciate your advice on the optimal edge setup. And if I could take just a lil more of your time, would you recommend a microbevel on a Nenox Gyuto sharpened at an 80/20. These knives are used in a professional kitchen and never on plastic boards. Thank you in advance!

    -Ray

  5. #15
    mkriggen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Hawai'i
    Posts
    675
    Quote Originally Posted by Rjgogue View Post
    Jbroida,

    What would you recommend on a Suisin Inox Honyaki Wa-Gyuto 240mm?? I have that knife due in the mail any day now and would greatly appreciate your advice on the optimal edge setup. And if I could take just a lil more of your time, would you recommend a microbevel on a Nenox Gyuto sharpened at an 80/20. These knives are used in a professional kitchen and never on plastic boards. Thank you in advance!

    -Ray
    Available handles- http://s64.photobucket.com/user/mkri...able%20handles

    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t
    Mikey

  6. #16
    Sponsors
    JBroida's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Beverly Hills, CA
    Posts
    4,049
    ray, shoot me an e-mail or give me a call and we can let this thread get back to what it was

  7. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Hawaii
    Posts
    1,267
    Chiharu Sugai,Jon Broida,Dave Martell,Murray Carter all do as far as I know use the tech. of thinning behind the edge at a more shallow angle & then kick in a final bevel at a higher angle.There are diff. terms for basically the same thing I call it back bevel and final bevel.

    The advantage as I think is not only gives the edge more durability,but also forms a more convex edge(two blended bevels)that is better than a machine ground wedge bevel that is found on many knives.From a Katana sword,Bone cleavers to a petty knife convex edges simply work.

    If my thinking is too simple I am certainly open to other opinions on the matter

  8. #18
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    425
    Thanks all for the ideas. I see that the common idea tend to be not removed chips. Yes i did not examine the blade with microscope so I will follow the advice to pay closer attention next time on this knife.
    Quote Originally Posted by DevinT View Post
    What knife is it? What steel is the knife made out of?

    Hoss
    This is Sakai Takayuki Grand Chef Petty in AEB-L


    Another thought is what angle (about) are you sharpening at?
    I would say about 10 degree per side. 50/50 grind.

    JBroida, in this particular case I did not create microbevel to remove burr. Actually the blade was noticeable burr free once I decided to do it. The reason I decided to create one, was purely experimental to see how the knife behaves. And because based on your video it makes the edge more "stable"

  9. #19

    stereo.pete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Chicago
    Posts
    1,782
    10 degrees is crazy low if I understand you correctly.
    Twitter: @PeterDaEater

  10. #20
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    425
    Well may be 12. I do not have any angle measurement tool except old protractor form school days. But from my perception it was efficiently several degrees lower then 15 degree.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts