Ok so I'm not any kind of expert, but to me, the most likely answer is those chips were there before the sharpening. I figure the fact that the OP only started with a 2k stone is a huge factor here.
Did you inspect that edge with the microscope prior to sharpening and after the 2k stone? My guess is that that the chips were there prior to sharpening, and the 2k raised a nice perceptible burr along the whole edge, but without removing the microchips that were there first. It takes me forever to get rid of any kind of chips with my Bester 1k and it raises a burr LONG before any chips are gone.
Its always a good idea to inspect the edge prior to sharpening with some kind of loupe, and then if there are any chips to be removed, make sure they're gone before progressing to finer grits.
Well, I am not all too experienced, but if - as you said - this is a minor issue that you will likely not really notice in actual use, just use the knife as normally and when the next sharpening session will be due check the blade with your microscope before and after sharpening - maybe you will find similar micro chipping (if that's what this is) in more than just one place.
What would you recommend on a Suisin Inox Honyaki Wa-Gyuto 240mm?? I have that knife due in the mail any day now and would greatly appreciate your advice on the optimal edge setup. And if I could take just a lil more of your time, would you recommend a microbevel on a Nenox Gyuto sharpened at an 80/20. These knives are used in a professional kitchen and never on plastic boards. Thank you in advance!
Available handles- http://s64.photobucket.com/user/mkri...able%20handles
Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t
Chiharu Sugai,Jon Broida,Dave Martell,Murray Carter all do as far as I know use the tech. of thinning behind the edge at a more shallow angle & then kick in a final bevel at a higher angle.There are diff. terms for basically the same thing I call it back bevel and final bevel.
The advantage as I think is not only gives the edge more durability,but also forms a more convex edge(two blended bevels)that is better than a machine ground wedge bevel that is found on many knives.From a Katana sword,Bone cleavers to a petty knife convex edges simply work.
If my thinking is too simple I am certainly open to other opinions on the matter
Thanks all for the ideas. I see that the common idea tend to be not removed chips. Yes i did not examine the blade with microscope so I will follow the advice to pay closer attention next time on this knife.
I would say about 10 degree per side. 50/50 grind.Another thought is what angle (about) are you sharpening at?
JBroida, in this particular case I did not create microbevel to remove burr. Actually the blade was noticeable burr free once I decided to do it. The reason I decided to create one, was purely experimental to see how the knife behaves. And because based on your video it makes the edge more "stable"
10 degrees is crazy low if I understand you correctly.
Well may be 12. I do not have any angle measurement tool except old protractor form school days. But from my perception it was efficiently several degrees lower then 15 degree.