Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 44

Thread: Knife sharpening issues for a newbie

  1. #1

    Knife sharpening issues for a newbie

    Just bought a king 1k/6k combo stone. I'm trying my hand at sharpening. Have a couple knives with problems, trying to figure out the best way to tackle the issues

    Shun Santoku - If you can see in the photo the edge is TORN! If i shot the edge from straight above, the tear is not in alignment with the rest of the edge and drags ferociously on the stones. How do i remedy this issue? I was thinking about trying to bend it back somehow but either way looks like that piece of metal has been compromised. This will be the last Shun I own. their VG10 is crap, chips so easily.

    Tanaka 210 Gyuto - Arrived in the mail with some small chips. If you look very closely looks like small bits of the edge are in the process of tearing away. Does this mean the angle is too low? Any recommendations on how to sharpen to fix? Im not even sure if the 1k stone is coarse enough, or maybe it'll take a REALLY long time

  2. #2
    Holy crap! How'd that happen to the Shun?

  3. #3
    Senior Member Miles's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Deep in the heart of a Texas kitchen
    Wow. What SC said... How on earth did that happen?

  4. #4
    Probably used it to cut thru bones. That Tanaka looks like it's rusting.

  5. #5
    i don't think they are easy to fix on the 1K King.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    New York, NY
    that could be carbide fallout on both knives but i suspect not on the shun. the king 1k, being slow cutting for a stone in that grit, which is too high to begin with for those fixes, is certainly not ideal. realistically speaking, it will take quite a while to fix those knives on that stone and it will be severely dished by the time you're finished so i do hope you have a stone fixer as well. if you are determined to attempt a repair with the king, i'd recommend using light pressure and try to get some practice using the whole surface of the stone to reduce dishing. allow yourself 30min-1hr per knife. also get a can of bar keepers friend and clean up the tanaka.

  7. #7
    Senior Member NO ChoP!'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Clayton, NC- surrounded by lots of trees
    Yah, Tanaka blue are super reactive. Like more so than anything else I've ever used....
    The difference between try and triumph is a little "umph"! NO EXCUSES!!!!!!!

  8. #8
    The tear in the Shun, not sure how it happened it's my wife's knife. I don't think she tried going thru bone, she usually uses the cleaver for that, but probably tried to go thru something hard or frozen. Rust developed on the Tanaka while I was sharpening, its super duper reactive and I was too lazy to remove before photo. I already have barkeepers friend handy to clean it up. I have to acid dip the knife as it's super reactive. So I guess i probably have to get a 400-500 grit stone. I have a flattening brick I bought which says it's 220 grit, would it be stupid to try to correct the chips on that?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by NO ChoP! View Post
    Yah, Tanaka blue are super reactive. Like more so than anything else I've ever used....
    There are others more frustratingly reactive The Tanaka blue cladding is on the more reactive half of the range, but definitely not at the top I'd say.

  10. #10
    I have a Tanaka too and mine doesn't rust like that while sharpening. And I don't think mine is super-reactive although the only thing I have to compare it too is a Takeda.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts