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  1. #1
    Senior Member Anton's Avatar
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    Any experience with Malaysian Blackwood?

    Have a blank for a WA handle, about 18 months drying.

    Does it need to be stabilized or is it considered a natural hardwood?
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  2. #2
    Canada's Sharpest Lefty Lefty's Avatar
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    Never used it, but I'm going to say it shouldn't need stabilizing...I could be wrong. Basically, I just want to say it's friggin' beautiful!
    09/06

    Take a look around at: www.sharpandshinyshop.com

    Email me at: tmclean@sharpandshinyshop.com

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    Malaysian blackwood is a nickname for a variety of true ebony or Asian ebony. Most of the ebony's and rosewood's too, are very dense and hard. You shouldn't need to stabilize them, unless they have burls and defects you are trying to deal with.

    That said - ebony's have a reputation for being really finicky while they dry. They'll check and crack if you're not careful....and even then, they'll torture you with more of the same.

    The loose rule of thumb I've heard is it's about a year of drying time per inch of thickness with the end grain waxed.

    Once dry, they are stabile. At 18 months, if you have no checks or cracks, you're probably good to go on a small piece. If you haven't worked with ebony's before -- be warned: they are tough on tools and being so dense, don't always glue easily either.

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    Senior Member Anton's Avatar
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    CPD,
    Thanks - this is great feedback and puts me at ease somewhat... It's a super clean piece and it has been in wax for the last 4 months. very SHARP tools is the key.

    Now come the decision of what to pair it with... it's like naming a child...?

    Quote Originally Posted by CPD View Post
    Malaysian blackwood is a nickname for a variety of true ebony or Asian ebony. Most of the ebony's and rosewood's too, are very dense and hard. You shouldn't need to stabilize them, unless they have burls and defects you are trying to deal with.

    That said - ebony's have a reputation for being really finicky while they dry. They'll check and crack if you're not careful....and even then, they'll torture you with more of the same.

    The loose rule of thumb I've heard is it's about a year of drying time per inch of thickness with the end grain waxed.

    Once dry, they are stabile. At 18 months, if you have no checks or cracks, you're probably good to go on a small piece. If you haven't worked with ebony's before -- be warned: they are tough on tools and being so dense, don't always glue easily either.

  5. #5
    Canada's Sharpest Lefty Lefty's Avatar
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    Afzelia burl and copper.
    09/06

    Take a look around at: www.sharpandshinyshop.com

    Email me at: tmclean@sharpandshinyshop.com

  6. #6
    Senior Member chinacats's Avatar
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    That is one gorgeous piece of wood!
    one man gathers what another man spills...

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    Senior Member cclin's Avatar
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    beautiful Malaysian Blackwood!! how about a nice marble horn & mammoth ivory to match up....
    Charles ***[All statements I made here only my personal opinion and nothing more!]*** & Please bare with me for my crappy English!!

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    Senior Member Anton's Avatar
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    Tooth would be too busy..

    Horn, yes this could be.. maybe.

    Also thinking of sandwich between all black blackwood cap and ferrule with nickel spacers... And put onto a Suji Kitaeji yanagiba. Hard to picture...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Anton View Post
    CPD,
    Thanks - this is great feedback and puts me at ease somewhat... It's a super clean piece and it has been in wax for the last 4 months. very SHARP tools is the key.

    Now come the decision of what to pair it with... it's like naming a child...?
    Glad to help. If you're looking for ideas, I'd Google Macassar Ebony and either art deco or guitars to see what an image search shows. Macassar ebony has a very similar look. Guitar makers use it as a tone wood sometimes and for art deco period furniture they used to use a ton of the stuff. It looks amazing next to whiter tone materials for contrast. They'd have used ivory, bone, shagreen or pearl...but might work great with micarta or something ike that.... or American Holly if you wanted a white wood (and assuming you can find it, that's stuff's hard to find too). Copper and gold tones get used with it a lot too...so a second to Lefty's copper suggestion.

    post pictures when you're done.

  10. #10
    Senior Member cclin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anton View Post
    Tooth would be too busy..

    Horn, yes this could be.. maybe.

    Also thinking of sandwich between all black blackwood cap and ferrule with nickel spacers... And put onto a Suji Kitaeji yanagiba. Hard to picture...
    huh?? mammoth ivory(natural white color spacer) is too busy?? I guess you prefer metal spacer more..... I'm little too old for shiny spacer Happy custom your yanagiba handle!!
    Charles ***[All statements I made here only my personal opinion and nothing more!]*** & Please bare with me for my crappy English!!

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