is epoxy enough?

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hobbitling

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So I'm re-handling a knife, and I'd like to attach the scales without rivets or pins. I was thinking I would drill some shallow holes that correspond to the tang holes, and allow the hardened epoxy to act as a pin. should that work?
 
I did some testing a couple of years ago just to satisfy my curiosity and I found that even just gluing scales to tang without drilling the scales at all provided a pretty good adhesion. It took some serious whacking with a hammer to get the scales to budge. I also tested the "drill into the wood to create an epoxy pins" thing and this held just as good, can't say better though.

The issue is shear force seen as being the #1 enemy but you should also include the prep work (fit up, sand up, clean up) & epoxy type as being factors as well.

If the knife is for your own use and you know that you'll not be whacking the hell out of it then aside from dropping it on the floor you'll probably be OK. If it's for someone else then you'll want to pin where you can.
 
Yeah, it's for my own use. It's really mostly for practicing my handle making skills (and hopefully end up with a nice knife for cheap).

Any epoxy recommendations? should it be clear, or would JB weld or some other opaque epoxy work too?
 
You can always do hidden pins too, if you don't like the look but like the toughness.
 
Dave mentioned "shear force" in his post. I'd like to add that if your wood isn't dry enough or improperly stabilized, it can break the epoxy bond and pull away from the tang as it warps and contorts its way through life as a knife handle. It happened to me with b&w ebony and spalted tamarind scales.
 
You can always do hidden pins too, if you don't like the look but like the toughness.

This was going to be my suggestion. Hidden pins are a nice security measure...and while they won't help as much as through pins when it comes to the wood warping, at least they'll do something. To add to ecchef's comment about warpage...if when you seal the handle some of it wears off, or for some other reason the handle takes in water unevenly, it can cause the same thing.
 
Any epoxy recommendations? should it be clear, or would JB weld or some other opaque epoxy work too?


My current favorite is G/Flex (by West Systems). Kalaeb turned me onto this stuff and I was insta-hooked. It is without question a great epoxy for this application.
 
My current favorite is G/Flex (by West Systems). Kalaeb turned me onto this stuff and I was insta-hooked. It is without question a great epoxy for this application.

That's what I am using also after trying out a dozen different ones.

Stefan
 
Thanks, I think I'll try the hidden pins and pick up some G-flex.
 
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