Ferrule to handle attachment

[CrisAnderson27]

I do something very similar. I run my dowel to inside but not all the way through the ferrule. I then work from a predrilled center hole in the ferrule to create an opening for the tang.

In my case, on larger handles I also use a 5/8 dowel. With a larger dowel, I can get a better burn in result than if I were trying to burn in to harder/denser exotic woods which may not respond as well to heat.

So far I've only mounted my own knives...and all of my tangs are a standard 1/2" in width, and around 2-3mm in thickness. For that reason I don't really need a 5/8" dowel...though to be honest I may go that way to ease overall positioning of the knife in the slot.

[richinva]

so..................the lighter wood that I'm seeing at the machi is probably a dowel? That makes sense. I'll try to post some pics during the lathe process and see how it goes.

Thanks, great thread for us dummies.................

[CrisAnderson27]

so..................the lighter wood that I'm seeing at the machi is probably a dowel? That makes sense. I'll try to post some pics during the lathe process and see how it goes.

Thanks, great thread for us dummies.................

Not on my, CPD, or Stefan's handles its not. On some others you'll see a dowel (or the wood of the handle if they use a tenon).

[vinster]

So far I've only mounted my own knives...and all of my tangs are a standard 1/2" in width, and around 2-3mm in thickness. For that reason I don't really need a 5/8" dowel...though to be honest I may go that way to ease overall positioning of the knife in the slot.

This thread got me interested and I was looking at some of my handles yesterday. On a wa-handle, the width of many of my handles is around 3/4" at the ferrule end, so if I used a 5/8" dowel in there, the ferrule wood might be very thin in spots of I didn't center the hole perfectly. I'm afraid of taking away too much material somewhere and exposing the ferrule!

[CrisAnderson27]

This thread got me interested and I was looking at some of my handles yesterday. On a wa-handle, the width of many of my handles is around 3/4" at the ferrule end, so if I used a 5/8" dowel in there, the ferrule wood might be very thin in spots of I didn't center the hole perfectly. I'm afraid of taking away too much material somewhere and exposing the ferrule!

I was just looking at that! My handles are all pretty much 3/4" square (give or take 1-2mm) at the ferrule. 5/8" would definitely be cutting it close. I mean...I could do it, but for overall strength on my handles I'm not sure it would be the best idea. CPD's handles may be a bit larger than that as he did mention 'on larger handles'.

[mhenry]

I use a ~1" long dowel that penetrates approx. a 1/2" into the handle and ferrule. The rest of the handle is hollow to allow an easy fit with the tang. I doubt there is much to be gained by using a full length dowel if the cavity in the handle is filled completely with epoxy

[richinva]

Not on my, CPD, or Stefan's handles its not. On some others you'll see a dowel (or the wood of the handle if they use a tenon).

So I would just see the horn.....................?

Thanks

[CPD]

I was just looking at that! My handles are all pretty much 3/4" square (give or take 1-2mm) at the ferrule. 5/8" would definitely be cutting it close. I mean...I could do it, but for overall strength on my handles I'm not sure it would be the best idea. CPD's handles may be a bit larger than that as he did mention 'on larger handles'.

When I use 5/8 it is on larger handles (240 gyuto for example). I also do it when working with a D shape that taper slightly toward the butt - which I didn't think to mention. With the D, there is more material to work with without getting "too close" but it is important to be perfectly centered.

On a smaller handle or Octagon, I'd probably go with 1/2 inch.

I basically go with as big a dowel as I can so long as I'm comfortable with the strength/remaining material (It's easier burn in to the dowel than trying to burn into exotic hardwoods)

[CrisAnderson27]

So I would just see the horn.....................?

Thanks

Yes...and any small gap remaining would be sealed.

[richinva]

Gotcha.

I'm thinking of just boring it out about 3/4", leave the rest. That should be adequate glue surface for the epoxy.

Great, I'll take a run at this when I get home.