Koa - pros and cons for no stabilization

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I have a very nice piece of Koa I've been holding onto for some while, it is NOT stabilized and therefore quite light compared to a stabilized piece.

Assuming it is fully dry (2-4% moisture after 2 years of laying around); I'm toying with the idea of making an extra light and nimble cutter using this wood. Has anyone gotten away without stabilizing a Koa WA handle? Pros/cons?

Thanks in advance

Antonio
 
I've wondered the same, as I've seen some gorgeous pieces at some of the wood suppliers I use.
 
Koa seems to be plenty tough and durable on it's own.
I don't think there would be any problems as long as you do a finish that seals the wood.
Otherwise the Koa is prone to end and surface checking.
My suggestion would be Danish Oil. I like Watco brand.

My impression with natural Koa vs stabilized Koa, was the stabilized was easier to finish and the figure stood out better.
Primarily because it is a fairly coarse grain wood.
 
There are a number of factors that can be used in deciding whether or not a wood needs to be stabilized: use, density, specific gravity, hardness, etc. One rule of thumb that I use is that if the specific gravity (at 12% MC) is below 80 I will always stabilize. Koa has a SG of 67 at 12% MC so at 2-4%, if your measurement is accurate, its SG is probably in the mid to upper 70s. The kind of puts it on the cusp, but I would stabilize so as not to have to worry about it. Of course if you live in a temperate climate where the temperature doesn't vary that much and you don't leave it soaking in the sink, you may not have any problems. While the piece will pick up some weight after being stabilized, that's the trade off you make for sleeping well at night.
 
Good to know. I've had great results with my current finishing steps, so I might have a goa at koa...see what I did there? :)
 
Damn, post #25 in that thread was pretty awesome!
I read through the entire thread--good read. Marko commented about koa losing color when stabilized. I used some Craig Stevens stabilized koa, and it turned out awesome. Of course I didn't see it pre-stabilization, but I still find it quite mesmerizing.

Muddy color and dull figure comes from using the wrong stabilizers.
K&G uses a different formula with Koa than what is used for maple and other woods.
Any Koa I have ever sent to them for stabilizing has always come back with an improved appearance.
 
Muddy color and dull figure comes from using the wrong stabilizers.
K&G uses a different formula with Koa than what is used for maple and other woods.
Any Koa I have ever sent to them for stabilizing has always come back with an improved appearance.
I can attest to that...as i seem to have bought half of it lol
 
Couple of cons - price and availability. Otherwise a great wood, stabilized or not.
 
off the topic stuff :D

as exotic as koa and harder than desert ironwood, try some of our aussie ringed gidgee, courtesy of mark :p Wonder why Mark is not stocking this anymore?
a20791e13182f4935b9080_l.jpg
 
off the topic stuff :D
as exotic as koa and harder than desert ironwood, try some of our aussie ringed gidgee, courtesy of mark :p Wonder why Mark is not stocking this anymore?

I have been trying to get another batch of Ringed Gidgee with this quality figure for over a year now.
The guy I got this stuff from was the only one who was ever able to provide the great figure without checks and cracks.
I guess I had better try to get in touch with him again because I love this stuff.
It even smells good when you sand it. Kind of a nutty aroma.
 
off the topic stuff :D

as exotic as koa and harder than desert ironwood, try some of our aussie ringed gidgee, courtesy of mark :p Wonder why Mark is not stocking this anymore?
a20791e13182f4935b9080_l.jpg

A problem with the gidgee is that it darkens very fast and the figure becomes barely visible. Great wood to work, good weight and density, polishes well, but expose it to water and air, and it becomes a dark block. I personally would not use it again.
 
I handled a Bowie knife at a local show recently with a ringed Gidgee handle, it was much darker than in this pic, but the figure was still visible, I really liked it.
 
Like ironwood there can be a lot of variations in the coloring.
It can oxidize and darken a bit if you don't apply a waterproof finish.
Another bad thing to do with gidgee is power buffing. Smears the figure and muddies the coloring.
Takes a different method than other dense woods but those who have worked things out are getting spectacular results that last.
MS Russ Andrews gets really good results with his method of finishing gidgee.
orig.jpg
 
i actually like the more subtle, darker ones
1084gidgee.jpg
 
Yeah, but what does Master Smith Russ Andrews know? :D
 
I was referring to wood being used on a kitchen knife, so in a regular contact with water. Most bowies and other collector types knives don't leaver drawers or see very little use.
 
With all of your research and saya/handle/knifemaking, I don't think anyone doubts what you say, Marko. It's nice stuff, and the colour change over time might be cool to pair up with a carbon blade.
 
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