Black Nargusta Burl Question

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Dream Burls

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I just finished cutting up a slab of Black Nargusta Burl and I'm debating whether or not to have the blocks stabilized. The specific gravity on this species ranges from .65 to .80 so it's at the lower end of what I usually consider a hardwood that doesn't need to be stabilized. The weight in my hand is a little less than what I'd like, but not by much. So I'm looking for some opinions: to stabilize or not to stabilize - what say you?
 
I always say when in doubt stabilize it. I have a big chunk of this out right now.
 
Hey Mike, thanks. Weren't you supposed to be on an oil rig by now?
 
Not permanently I go for a while and I am off for while. Just got back from Norway. Now I am working nights testing BOP's at the company I worked at for 18 years prior to this one it's kinda awkward.
 
Stable is the best ! However you as a burl dealer should know this as it is always best to stabilize unless it is a Natural hard,dense and stable wood . Just my .02 worth .

Sam
 
Thanks for getting this thread back on track Sam. I do know that. I also know it costs money and takes a lot more time to finish stabilized blocks, but they will be going to K&G. Thanks for the input everyone. And I got to learn what a BOP is.
 
Thanks for getting this thread back on track Sam. I do know that. I also know it costs money and takes a lot more time to finish stabilized blocks, but they will be going to K&G. Thanks for the input everyone. And I got to learn what a BOP is.

I have not posted any work here of any sorts . However, I will state this when working with any woods, Yes ! It may be expensive and time consuming to work with and finish out a stabilized handle or project. Yet why in the world would any knife maker ever put substandard wood on a blade that they have worked so on ? In honesty No one would ever do it or they should not do it. If they have any pride in their work or themselves . I would take quality over quantity any day of the year or in my life time. Just remember you always get everything you ever pay for . If you use a substandard product doing a project that is what you will get with the finished product .

Have a Blessed Day & Best Regards

Sam
 
Yes ! It may be expensive and time consuming to work with and finish out a stabilized handle or project. Yet why in the world would any knife maker ever put substandard wood on a blade that they have worked so on ? In honesty No one would ever do it or they should not do it. If they have any pride in their work or themselves .

Sam, My mission is to sell the highest quality wood I can, but to imply that unstabilized wood is "substandard" is off the mark. There are plenty of hardwoods that can withstand the rigors of kitchen use without being stabilized, as you pointed out in your previous post. The line between acceptable and unacceptable species is sometimes a gray one. I need to make decisions in that gray area and I always err on the side of caution and have my blocks stabilized when there is any doubt in my mind. I also recognize that I'm still learning about this business and that there are forum members with much greater experience and knowledge than I so I reach out for opinions and guidance. Of course, the final decision and the final responsibility is mine. My customers come first and I spare no expense or effort to give them the best product I can.
 
Stable is the best ! However you as a burl dealer should know this as it is always best to stabilize unless it is a Natural hard,dense and stable wood . Just my .02 worth .

Sam

Sam, My mission is to sell the highest quality wood I can, but to imply that unstabilized wood is "substandard" is off the mark. There are plenty of hardwoods that can withstand the rigors of kitchen use without being stabilized, as you pointed out in your previous post. The line between acceptable and unacceptable species is sometimes a gray one. I need to make decisions in that gray area and I always err on the side of caution and have my blocks stabilized when there is any doubt in my mind. I also recognize that I'm still learning about this business and that there are forum members with much greater experience and knowledge than I so I reach out for opinions and guidance. Of course, the final decision and the final responsibility is mine. My customers come first and I spare no expense or effort to give them the best product I can.

Yes As I noted the first post in Bold there are exceptions to the "Stabilizing Rule" . Yes Your dessication is the ultimate and final to provide the best woods to your customers. and a Happy customer is one that will return to do Business with you many times again if you supply a good product . I did NOT Imply anything of the sort "imply that unstabilized wood is "substandard" ".

Believe me or Not I may have more wood in my barn then you may have in your store . Thanks to My GGPaw and my GPaw as both were Master Wood Working Craftsman and collected both local and Exotic woods from around the world . I grew up around and work with a ton of different woods ( NOTE: None of the wood is for sell, Nor am I advertizing to do any work for folks here )

I simply Stated You as a Dealer (With a Company that Sells Both ) should Know if a piece of wood needs to be Stabilized or not ! (also IF I was to take your view about my statement and Assume things, I could look at it in the principles that you do not know your woods well enough to be selling them to your customers to provide the best woods you can. However , I do NOT Assume anything about folks I have never met or know anything about. ) Furthermore, when in doubt (Do the research about the wood ) then if you are still not sure, Stabilize the wood for the satisfaction of the customer and yourself that you have provided the Best Product your Company can offer .

I really did not intend to get into a cow pile kicking contest with you about wood or its ability to be used for any project. If you wish to end this conversation in the forum and wish to PM me I would be more then Happy to give you My Personal Cell phone number and discuss this with you like Gentlemen with out any assumptions that we do not know what ether of us has the knowledge about wood and working with wood . Yes I will Pay for the conversation to save you some Money .

Best Regards to you Sir, Have a Blessed Day

Ret Sgt. Samuel
 
This May help you with the : As it was a quick search .

Nargusta (Terminalia amazonia) is a fast-growing, tall tree, reaching 100 to 120 feet in height in the natural forest, with older specimens sometimes reaching 140 feet, with a trunk of 3 to 4 feet in diameter. The tree may have a long clear symmetrical bole of 60 to 70 feet above a strong buttress.
Because of its beauty, nargusta is used for furniture and cabinet work, boat building, turnery, flooring, interior trim, doors. It is similar in strength to oak and therefore also used in heavy construction.
The heartwood is resistant to decay and is rated as medium to high. It is reported to be resistant to dry-wood termites, but susceptible to attack by subterranean termites and powder post beetle.
The natural growth range of the species is reported to extend from southern Mexico southward through Central America and into northern South America to Brazil and Peru.
Nargusta is generally considered difficult to work by hand, because of its hardness and blunting affect. However, straight-grained sections are more workable and yield excellent results from machining. Fasteners hold well, but gluing capability is poor.
Other Names: Nargusta, Almendro, Amarillon, Naranjo, Canxan Negro
Family: Combretaceae
Common name: roble coral, amarillón
Comercial name: bullywood
Roble coral’s wood is heavy or very heavy, with green weight between 1020 and 1100 kg/m3, and 50 to 80 percent moisture content; basic specific weight is 0.68. Based on its physical and mechanical properties, the timber is of high or excellent quality. Its natural durability and fungal resistance could vary with origin, and it has moderate resistance to termite attack.
The timber is commonly used in heavy general interior and exterior construction, cabinetwork, floors (parquet), decorative veneers, bridge foundations, and boats. According to Flores[SUP]1[/SUP] (1994), drying is moderately difficult, but it can vary with wood origin, too. During drying, the wood may show cracks, moderate fissures, and slight twisting.
In its green state, the sapwood is grayish yellow, and the heartwood is darker. When dry, the sapwood turns orange or yellowish, and the heartwood becomes reddish yellow, light yellowish brown, or yellowish olive with darker reddish or dark brown stripes. The wood tends to oxidize rapidly when it has been exposed to air and light (Flores, 1994). The wood has an interlocked grain, medium texture, and high luster on radial planes, but it is regular on tangential planes, which makes it difficult to finish. Radial cuts are made parallel to the long axis, through the center; the grain pattern is a series of parallel lines. Tangential cuts are parallel to the long axis, anywhere but through the center; the grain pattern is wavy and variable, not all parallel. The lines and veins resulting from both types of cuts make this wood very attractive.
Terminalia amazonia is the most distributed neotropical species of this genus. It has a wide geographic distribution extending from the Gulf of Mexico in the Atlantic watershed to the Guyanas in South America, including the Antilles (Trinidad and Tobago). In Costa Rica it grows in humid forest on both the northern and southern slopes of the central range, but its frequency has been reduced due to intensive tree cutting.
It is a tall tree and a dominant species in the evergreen rainforest and very wet forest on both Costa Rica’s watersheds. It can reach heights above 50 m (164 feet), and in some forests, up to 70 m (230 feet) and reaches 120 to 150 cm (4 to 5 feet) DBH. Usually it has a straight trunk, frequently grooved in the basal third. It has conspicuous buttresses (easy to observe), which are longer and wider when the species grows in swampy areas. The bark is quite thin, dull, and grayish brown or grayish yellow colored and exfoliates medium-size flecking plates. It is a helophyte species (grows in full sunlight) and regenerates easily in open areas, forest edges, and pasturelands. It grows at altitudes between 20 and 1200 m (66 and 3937 feet) with annual rainfall above 1500 mm (60 inches), and commonly as a riparian (along the rivers and creeks). The species grows well in many different soil types, but seems to do better on clay soils.
Blooming occurs between February and April. The fruit ripens between March and May; most flowers develop a fruit, but many fruits lack seeds, so people usually report lower germination rates. The immature fruits are depredated by parrots and parakeet bands.
Experimental plots of roble coral in the northern zone of Costa Rica with spacing that varies from 2 x 2 m (6.6 x 6.6 feet) and 4 x 4 m (13.12 x 13.12 feet) at three years of age are achieving up to 85% survival, with an average growth of 5 m (16.5 feet) and 5.8 cm (2.28 inches) DBH. This species is believed to have a great future in reforestation programs in the northern and southern zones of Costa Rica.
[SUP]1[/SUP]Flores, E. 1994a. Arboles y Semillas del Neotropico. Vol. 3, Nº1. San Jose, Museo Nacional de Costa Rica.

Best Regards

Ret Sgt. Samuel
 
I have not posted any work here of any sorts . However, I will state this when working with any woods, Yes ! It may be expensive and time consuming to work with and finish out a stabilized handle or project. Yet why in the world would any knife maker ever put substandard wood on a blade that they have worked so on ? In honesty No one would ever do it or they should not do it. If they have any pride in their work or themselves . I would take quality over quantity any day of the year or in my life time. Just remember you always get everything you ever pay for . If you use a substandard product doing a project that is what you will get with the finished product .

Have a Blessed Day & Best Regards

Sam
Sounds like an implication to me.
 
Sam, if I misinterpreted your meaning I apologize. Thank you for your insights and happy holidays.
 
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