What thickness stock for pairing knives?

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stereo.pete

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Question is in the title, I'm going to try my hand at a small pairing knife or two, any suggestions?
 
I think I am going to go with 3/32" precision ground O1, thoughts?
 
3/32" is the base line for what most of us use for kitchen knives. I'd guess that you could go for thinner stock (for a parer) but in my opinion sometimes it's nice to have extra meat, so 3/32" should do you fine.
 
Good luck! I had the same idea. Have two blanks; got the most beautiful distal taper, a fairly even grind; switched to a higher belt to blend it all together, and blew the tip; several times. After a solid hour, I set it down, and have yet to return to it. I've realized I do not work well frustrated.
 
I think I am going to go with 3/32" precision ground O1, thoughts?

That's what I'Ve one with, Pete. It leaves a lot to get rid of, but allows room to make the geometry better. 1/8 might work well for a parer....
 
I think you we're going for 1/16 Which is about the size of the thickest part of a shun parer that ppl seem to like. But it tapers hard in all directions. Hmm unless. Deba-parer.......
 
Good luck! I had the same idea. Have two blanks; got the most beautiful distal taper, a fairly even grind; switched to a higher belt to blend it all together, and blew the tip; several times. After a solid hour, I set it down, and have yet to return to it. I've realized I do not work well frustrated.

Chris,

The same thing happened to me today when I was using my 1x30 grinder for the first time to make a knife. The original design had a bit more point so say the least. This was the result of a 1" by 12" bar of O1 in 1/8" thickness I had laying around. Figured I would play around with my new janky 1x30 Harbor Freight grinder. Edge is down to about a dimes thickness, which would have taken me in the past about 3-4 days with hand files. This only took me 2 hours today!

ncgm.jpg

and
co2y.jpg
 
Yeah, I dunno...my brain is off. Haha

A good little trick until the grinder no longer gets the best of you is to set the distal taper, grind until you get nervous (of blowing the tip), then finish the tip and BTE with files and diamond plates, then sandpaper, or leather belt.
 
Are you using ceramic belts?

I just picked up some random 180grit 1x30 belts off of amazon, here's the description. "POWERTEC 111330 1-Inch x 30-Inch 180 Grit Aluminum Oxide Sanding Belt, 10-Pack "
 
You need ceramic belts IMHO. They will cut longer, better, and stay cooler than AO belts. Aluminum oxide is best for working with wood. Also I would start with a lower grit for most of the removal and then just polish out the big scratches with the 180. Also dip the blade in water after every pass that way heat doesn't build up between passes. Finally make sure you are only using sharp belts towards the end (and for the whole process, but especially toward the end) when a belt is dull it builds up heat a million times faster.

Look at supergrit they have decent prices and pretty good selection for belts. I have nothing but good things to say about them, but I have a friend who got shorted (they forgot one of his sanding disks) on an order once. And buy more belts than you think you will need, it always sucks running out of belts mid-project.

Have fun,
Mike
 
Mike,

Just realized that Supergrit is the same retailer that I purchase all of my Rhynowet Redline sandpaper from, they are great! Thanks again!
 
I'm a big fan of the Supergrit Bora-7 ceramic belts over their regular ceramic belts. Definitely worth the extra few cents....
 
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