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Thread: Burls... Australian sources?

  1. #11
    Engorged Member El Pescador's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by Nmko View Post
    Of what i bought i was informed ALL of it was between 8 - 12% moisture content... LOTS of it was green and no where near what was claimed in terms of moisture content - so i felt... I've had scales air drying for months now and decided i would see how it went, using a claimed 9% moisture content set of burl scales i made a small saya, within a few days after finishing said saya the join lines had seperated and you could clearly see movement in the wood...

    Since then i had a few pieces of forrest oak i had drying out for around a month, decided to use that - Still no movement and the join lines are well disguised.. Of all the stuff i had from this particular seller this dried the fastest and cleanest with no checks... I've got some brown mallee burl thats almost ready and its taken nearly 3 months or so and its the best looking and most dense of all his stock i think.
    I've talked to Mark about burls that have taken YEARS to dry out.

    "So you want to be a vegetarian? Hitler was a vegetarian and look at how he turned out."

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Thanks again for all the info. After some researching I feel I could make a kiln out of my non functioning dishwasher, a desk fan & a light fixture with various lightbulbs . Would I be right to assume if I weigh the wood every few days it is ready when the weight stops dropping? Is it possible to overdry? Also do you still use anchorseal with kiln drying? I've read anchorseal on the end grains helps even out moisture release... Not sure if that would relates to burls as the grain is abnormal right?
    These are all guesses with my limited knowledge so please chime in if I'm wrong

  3. #13
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Kerby, OR
    A lot of the extra dense woods are difficult to dry. Anchorseal does not seem to work with them.
    I know a bunch of makers in AU and the most successful way for them is to apply a coat of thin CA glue to all surfaces of the block and just set it aside for a year or so.
    Some of the easier AU woods to dry are Sheoak, Beefwood, Rose Myrtle, Lacewood and Tasmanian Blackwood.
    A lot of the AU wood suppliers sell to wood turners who are willing to work with green wood and don't seem as concerned with checking.

    Don't microwave any woods! Think of it like putting a plastic bowl in the oven. Not a good thing to do.
    The best way to dry most woods is with a temp around 70-80f. Constant airflow and a dehumidifier. Always seal the end grain.

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