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Thread: [Cutting Boards] End vs. Edge

  1. #21
    Did you see the note on the Boardsmith website that mentioned his seconds at 25% off? You might see what he's got.

  2. #22
    Senior Member brainsausage's Avatar
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    Edge grain tend to warp and gouge more in my experience, but YMMV...
    The AI does not love you, nor does it hate you, but you are made out of atoms it might find useful for something else. - Eliezer Yudkowsky

  3. #23
    I have an 11x14x1.5 edge grain that has served me well for over 20yrs. My wife even ran it through the dishwasher a few times before I broke her of that. When I decided I wanted a new and bigger board I got an 18x24x2 BoardSmith. Love that board and it's my main but I still have and use my edge grain. They'll probably both last my lifetime.
    "Those who say it can't be done are always pasted by those doing it"

  4. #24
    Senior Member Salty dog's Avatar
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    Chances are you won't notice the difference. Go for looks.

    FWIW, I find the maple edge grain softer. I don't baby my knives and have been known to "pound" them. The softer wood works better for my style and is more forgiving on my knives.

    No turds but I do have have a dozen or so cigarette burns on the edge of my work board/table.
    Also the work board has no glue. It's held together with metal rods. Something that can't be done with end grain.

  5. #25
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    Can you post some pictures of that Salty?
    "If you are flamable and have legs you are never blocking a fire exit."

  6. #26
    Senior Member Salty dog's Avatar
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    You can see one of the round plugs on the edge in this picture.


  7. #27
    Senior Member zitangy's Avatar
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    I have tried Snow River and also John Boos ~edge and End grain.

    1. End grain.. Just like hairs sticking upwards adn you are cutting into it and thus shld be gentle on te thin fine edge adn theoretically, if it is not too deep, Shld "heal". Will be more thirsty though adn thus after sufficient oiling, I use Howards food safe wax most of the time to " seal it"

    As it is glued, both have come apart one or two parts ... nothing major. After light sanding adn squeezing liquid glue, clamp it, sand it as evenly as i can get it, oil it and its good to go. I suppose any glue will eventually come off.

    2. End grain. Problem of warpage. IF you can choose, look for the pieces that has ring lines pointing 65 to 90 degrees ( at the side of board)as these tend to have less tangential movt of the wood and thus more stable.

    Dry them well and oil them form time to time.. it will serve you well over many many years..

    IF you ask me whether I can feel the difference when cutting on them respectively ( maple edge and end grain) , I really cant tell teh diff. a I am not that ultra sensitive when I cut. But on Poly boards.. no thoroughly Joy at all.

    Whatever it is have fun with it and its meant to be used....

    rgds
    d

  8. #28
    Senior Member Notaskinnychef's Avatar
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    While I didn't have the budget for the awesome boards by boardsmith, I have a 20x20x3 end grain catskill board, been using it for a year now, and still has yet to show a knife cut on the board. Its awesome, love it and it will last me many decades, if not my lifetime

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notaskinnychef View Post
    While I didn't have the budget for the awesome boards by boardsmith, I have a 20x20x3 end grain catskill board, been using it for a year now, and still has yet to show a knife cut on the board. Its awesome, love it and it will last me many decades, if not my lifetime
    You can try MTMWood board. I own one and couldn't be more happy. Pretty affordable http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=common/home

  10. #30
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    want that hattori kd salty =D

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