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Thread: Drying maple burl

  1. #11
    Das HandleMeister apicius9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mkriggen View Post
    Sense I'm actually on the dry side of Hawaii, should I wax coat it? (I'd rather not if it's not really necessary).

    Thanks,
    Mikey
    Mark's the man, but I don't think that's needed, FWIW. BTW, dry side of Hawaii, that's Kona, right?

    Stefan

  2. #12
    That would indeed be Kona. Sitting here at work next to the ocean watching our VOG head your way as I write this

    Be well,
    Mikey
    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t
    Mikey

  3. #13
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    I think you will be fine without sealing the wood.
    Mark Farley / It's a Burl
    Phone 541-592-5071, Email burlsource@gmail.com
    Visit our web store

  4. #14
    Thanks Mark, I hate having to strip that stuff off later.

    Be well,
    Mikey
    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t
    Mikey

  5. #15
    Senior Member pkjames's Avatar
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    wrap the blocks with paper bags, that would even the moisture content and reduce the chance of cracking.

  6. #16
    Weird Wood Pusher Burl Source's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pkjames View Post
    wrap the blocks with paper bags, that would even the moisture content and reduce the chance of cracking.
    Very good advice.
    Mark Farley / It's a Burl
    Phone 541-592-5071, Email burlsource@gmail.com
    Visit our web store

  7. #17
    What is the process for stabilizing burl or any other wood for that matter?

  8. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Dropmon View Post
    What is the process for stabilizing burl or any other wood for that matter?
    Put it in a box and send to K&G
    Rule #1- Don't sweat the small s%&t, rule #2- It's ALL small s%&t
    Mikey

  9. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by mkriggen View Post
    Put it in a box and send to K&G


    But quickly, what K&G does is to put the blanks in a tube (theirs are about 6" in diameter and about 2 feet long) where a vacuum is created and poly resins are pressured into the cells of the wood. This "stabilizes" the cells so that they are less prone to move (warp, expand, contract) and a bit more heat resistant.
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  10. #20
    Thanks. It doesn't seem to be a DIY project then.

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