Disappointed from my knife Miyabi 600s

Advertise with us
Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A

Alexnoj

Member
Joined
Jan 27, 2014
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
I buy my first knife last week for 110$ and I feel like the knife not worth the money, feel like a knife not enough sharp.
should I go and take my money back or give to the knife one more chance?
 
honestly I think you can get a better knife than a Miyabi for 110 where did you get it from?
 
return, buy a Carbonext from JCK and ask Koki to make sure it comes sharp for similar money. If you want a stainless get the Kagayaki basic.
 
hm so a 210mm pretty much can you return is still maybe JCK is a good spot for you since your in Isreal Japanesechefknives.com
 
Hmm, if I remember correctly this is the Morimoto edition. I recall it being softish at 57hrc...probably a good candidate for frequent ceramic rodding.

Knives ootb usually are less than stellar. Fresh steel should be exposed with an initial sharpening. Do you have a stone?
 
do you try the Miyabi 600s ? I want be sure that im not just petty.

by now i dont have a stone, ill buy one.
 
the king 1000/6000 or other combo not sure of the grit # is a good cheap starter stone
 
My first "good" knife was a Miyabi 7000mc. I also was disapointed by the OOTB edge, but after I took it to the stones I was very impressed with the edge it took and it maintains it forever. I know the two knives are different steels but what I'm trying to say is don't judge it by the factory edge, judge it by the way it feels in hand and how it cuts after being properly sharpened. Many high quality knives come with little to no cutting edge, they leave it up to you to put the edge you want on them.

Be well,
Mikey
 
Alexnoj said:
I'd love more recommendations of knifvies for 100-160$ -:)
Click to expand...

Fujiwara FKM, Carbonext, Hiromoto AS, Misono Swedish, Geeshin Uraku all depends on what you need it for fill out the questionaire that is a sticky!
 
honestly they need a little thinning and sharpening but i dont think they are bad for the money... i also seen them at tj maxx for $20-$40 while i realize not in israel just sayin not a bad value.

imo get a stone way more important then knife choice these days. btw ill guarantee my myabi 6 is sharper then most any production ootb.
 
Yeah this is just a very soft stainless steel. You shouldn't be surprised by out of the box sharpness on almost any knife purchase though. They always leave much to be desired. Get your money back and use the questionnaire to help find you a suitable blade for your tastes.
 
My aunt bought one of these and I sharpened it and used it for a bit. Had to thin behind the edge and put prolly 20* per side but it performed decent. Not 110 $ worth
 
I don't think it's a great idea to learn sharpening with a soft stainless. It has some peculiar issues that require techniques you won't use with other steel types. Better have a thin basic carbon steel for learning, as an Opinel "au carbone", or a simple Robert Herder.
 
Benuser said:
I don't think it's a great idea to learn sharpening with a soft stainless. It has some peculiar issues that require techniques you won't use with other steel types. Better have a thin basic carbon steel for learning, as an Opinel "au carbone", or a simple Robert Herder.
Click to expand...


in the end, its ends up being his choice,but again he already owns the knife, so why not take advantage of it? This knife isn't European soft, just 57RHc. I do agree with you to a certain extent, but the advantage with a softer knife is that it is fairly easy to sharpen/ its fairly quick to see the results of you sharpening. I know plenty of people who started on softer steel and worked their way up to harder stuff. Another benefit is being able to practice thinning which is almost as important as sharpening. The only disadvantage is the "greasy" feel that is sharpening soft stainless on stones.
 
Benuser said:
It has some peculiar issues that require techniques you won't use with other steel types.
Click to expand...

I've never noticed in peculiar issues requiring special techniques, and I've sharpened a heck of a lot of them.
 
Benuser said:
I don't think it's a great idea to learn sharpening with a soft stainless. It has some peculiar issues that require techniques you won't use with other steel types. Better have a thin basic carbon steel for learning, as an Opinel "au carbone", or a simple Robert Herder.
Click to expand...

Benuser I agree that learning to sharpen on a basic carbon is best.I have sharpened quite a few 600 series at 57 they sharpen alot like forschners.It is not hard to raise a burr on either of these knives.

I have sharpened bottom of the line Mercer's fr. student culinary kits hrt 54 these don't sharpen anywhere near as well as the Miyabi 600's or Forschners.
 
Soft stainless has a high abrasion resistance and is problematic for its tenacious burrs and wire edges. For thinning and sharpening I use a coarse stone (J300) with an uncommon amount of pressure, and deburr on a 2k by abrading, no chasing. No stropping. I don't remove the 300 scratches, no usual progression.
 
How about this http://www.leevalley.com/US/garden/page.aspx?cat=2,40733,40738&p=52770 to practice sharpening on?
45k3646s1.jpg
 
Benuser said:
Soft stainless has a high abrasion resistance and is problematic for its tenacious burrs and wire edges. For thinning and sharpening I use a coarse stone (J300) with an uncommon amount of pressure, and deburr on a 2k by abrading, no chasing. No stropping. I don't remove the 300 scratches, no usual progression.
Click to expand...

None of that is a special technique.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top